Guests - If You want access to member only forums on FM. You will gain access only when you Sign-in or Sign-Up on Fishing Minnesota.

It's easy - LOOK UPPER right menu.

  • Announcements

    • Rick

      Members Only Fluid Forum View   08/08/2017

      Fluid forum view allows members only to get right to the meat of this community; the topics. You can toggle between your preferred forum view just below to the left on the main forum entrance. You will see three icons. Try them out and see what you prefer.   Fluid view allows you, if you are a signed up member, to see the newest topic posts in either all forums (select none or all) or in just your favorite forums (select the ones you want to see when you come to Fishing Minnesota). It keeps and in real time with respect to Topic posts and lets YOU SELECT YOUR FAVORITE FORUMS. It can make things fun and easy. This is especially true for less experienced visitors raised on social media. If you, as a members want more specific topics, you can even select a single forum to view. Let us take a look at fluid view in action. We will then break it down and explain how it works in more detail.   The video shows the topic list and the forum filter box. As you can see, it is easy to change the topic list by changing the selected forums. This view replaces the traditional list of categories and forums.   Of course, members only can change the view to better suit your way of browsing.   You will notice a “grid” option. We have moved the grid forum theme setting into the main forum settings. This makes it an option for members only to choose. This screenshot also shows the removal of the forum breadcrumb in fluid view mode. Fluid view remembers your last forum selection so you don’t lose your place when you go back to the listing. The benefit of this feature is easy to see. It removes a potential barrier of entry for members only. It puts the spotlight on topics themselves, and not the hierarchical forum structure. You as a member will enjoy viewing many forums at once and switching between them without leaving the page. We hope that fluid view, the new functionality is an asset that you enjoy .
Sign in to follow this  
huntingmaxima

Yellow Spots in lawn

Recommended Posts

huntingmaxima

Is there an additive you can put into the water dish to cure this?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
vetobe

I too have this problem on a regular basis especially in spring time. Some people believe it is the pH which the tablets that you can find at any pet store are supposed to change. I am not a fan of giving these tablets since they can change urine acidity and predispose dogs to bladder stones. Others think it is the nitrogen in the urine. I have tried gypsum from home depot - no luck. I have tried watering the area right after my dog pees - a big pain but works. Finally, I have just trained my dog to go in one area and then reseeded and topsoiled that area on a regular basis. Hope this helps.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
SportFishin'

Hi guys,

Tomato juice is the additive to their dry kibble (about a 1/2 cup).

Then when summer comes around we have a cherry tomato plant for the dogs to graze off of seems to do the trick every year.

Regards,

Chris

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
huntingmaxima

SportFishin, I have heard the same thing about tomatoe juice but was affraid to mention it. Now I know that I will try it. Was waiting for someone else to mention it. Thanks.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
MIKE IN lINO III

During the summer we plant a special garden just for the dogs. All tomatoe plants. We have to put up a fence to keep them out.

Mike

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Dahitman44

Wow -- will they really eat tomato juice?

I know I won't

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Sutty

I used to give my dog tomato juice and it seemed to work fine. After a while though she got a bladder infection. I was going to try the gypson this year...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
LABS4ME

I have a degree in Horticulture... trust me Gypsum will do nothing! Do Not waste your money or time! Buy some good topsoil and seed and fix the areas that way.

Good Luck!

Ken

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Dahitman44

labs --

Is that the best option --seed and move on.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
LABS4ME

I've heard varying reports on the tomato juice... I guess it's up to you to decide if you want to try it and see if it works.

Topsoil and seed or re-sod is the only way to address the damage. I personally do not let my dogs have free reign in the yard as to where they go to the bathroom. They are conditioned to go in the same place every time. I have a few acres now and they know where to go... and it's not in the yard. I have quite a bit of native grass and they go about half way down the drive and go to the bathroom. When I lived on a standard city lot, they either went on the vacant land at the end of the block, or in the 8'x8' timber box I built and filled with pea rock. Not real big on the yellow spots myself... They're easy to teach where to go if you put a little effort in to it. Iput some chicken wire around the timbers with a narrow opening in one corner, I'd walk them on a leash into it and let them off and command 'go potty'. After they did I told them good dog. Then the chicken wire came down after a couple weeks and I'd walk them over there, and make sure they stayed in the timbers and went to the bathroom. They eventually get to the point where they will just go there by themselves when they need to go.

Good Luck!

Ken

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
slotlimit

Did this ever work with an intact male? I live in the country and take my dog out in the field. He will now run their, take a dump and a wiz. But it seems he always has enough to water every tree, tire, etc.....

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
LABS4ME

I have an intact male... I live on 3 acres. He knows the yard and assoc. trees / shrubs and tires are off limits. In fact it is rare to see him mark a tire anywhere. He also squats about half of the times he pees instead of lifting his leg.

They all know to go down the drive and into the naturla area to go to the bathroom. It just taks conditioning and training...

Good Luck!

Ken

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
slotlimit

Their is a product called Lawn Guard. It looks like little dog treat you give to your dog every day and it should cure your problem.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Tripleplay

Labs,

Do you do anyting to the pea rock to "cleanse it" after it gets used heavily. The reason I'm asking is we now have our dogs for the most part using the landscaping rocks outside the back garage door but it has be getting a bit smelly and I'm really concerned about it when it gets hotter outside.

We also have an Invisible Fence and both dogs did a great job of checkering my front yard which explains why I was looking for yard advice! I've always gone the rake the dead stuff up a bit and over seed route so that looks like the only option. Used gypsum as well and sounds like I can just skip that step going forward.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
LABS4ME

Just a good hard soaking with a garden hose. I blasted it down through the rock to the bottom. I had fairly sandy soil so it would all leach into the soil relatively quick.

At my buddys house we did a paver area that drained into a 4" pvc pipe cut in half. This drained into a 40 gallon drum buried in the soil with drain holes cut in the bottom. We filed this with river rock. He would rinse off the paver and wash it all down into his doggie septic system. No clean-up, no mess, no smell. Worked great! Just more work for you to build!!!

Good Luck!

Ken

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
311Hemi

From a DVM from Purdue University:

Dietary Modification Techniques

A great many dietary modifications for dogs have been tried, often based on home remedies or anecdotal experience. A veterinarian should always be consulted prior to making any dietary modifications, whether they include additions or subtractions from standard nutrient guidelines. As stated earlier, the pH of the urine has little or no effect on the urine damage to the lawn. The addition of acidifying agents, including nutritional supplements like D-I, Methionine (Methioform), Ascorbic Acid (Vitamin C), or fruit juices will have no benefit for this problem and may predispose the dog to an increased incidence of certain bladder stones. Likewise, alkalinizing agents, including baking soda and potassium citrate can predispose to other types of bladder stones or infections. The addition of any of these supplements has enough potential to cause harm, with limited to no known benefit for the lawn, and are not recommended.

When owners have reported successes, as is sometimes the case on internet forums, liquids likely improved the situation because the urine concentration after treatment was diluted. Safer ways to accomplish more dilute urine include feeding canned food, moistening dry food with water prior to feeding and adding salt or garlic salt to the regular food. One particular home remedy, tomato juice, likely has its primary benefit through both increased salt and water intake. While salt will make the dog drink more and dilute the urine, increased salt intake can cause problems for dogs with existing kidney or heart conditions. Owners should not alter their dog’s diet without consulting with their veterinarian.

Dogs with more dilute urine may have to urinate more frequently as well and need more frequent elimination opportunities. While specific breed differences haven’t been noted, smaller dogs produce less urine than larger dogs so are dumping less nitrogen waste. Dogs with bladder infections often demonstrate an urgency to urinate and typically squat several times, leaving small amounts or drops each time. These dogs may be less of a problem for lawns than normal dogs who empty their whole bladder in one sitting. Dog owners who actually note that their dog’s urine is no longer causing lawn burn, without having made any changes, should have their dog examined by their veterinarian and a urinalysis performed to make sure there are no medical conditions causing this change.

The other option to consider besides diluting the urine is to reduce the amount of nitrogen waste being dumped in the urine. The average family dog doesn’t have the activity level that requires as high a protein level as most commercial maintenance dog foods provide. Although, dog food purchasing often reflects consumer perception that high protein equals better food, in fact moderate to low protein foods are often adequate for all but the most energetic, working and hunting dogs. When examining a food label, protein content must be compared on a dry matter basis and unfortunately, it is not like comparing apples to apples. Dry foods vary in how much moisture they have, so the protein percent listed can’t be immediately compared to all other foods. Canned foods will have a much lower protein percent listed than dry foods but also have much higher water content.

The quality of the protein also has an impact since some proteins are highly digestible, meaning less is dumped in the feces and possibly the urine, than other proteins. In general, the premium and super premium pet foods, available from pet stores and veterinarians, will have higher quality protein and more digestible proteins than standard grocery store brands. The higher digestibility translates into smaller fecal size as well. It is probably best to discuss individual pet needs with a veterinarian or nutrition consultant in the practice to determine what is the best fit, based on feasibility, palatability and economics. In many cases, if a dog food is currently providing good, overall nutritional support for the pet, diluting the urine by simply adding water to the food may be the easiest place to start.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.
Sign in to follow this  



  • Posts

    • Spearing Machine
      I figured I would start up a new thread for us to use for the winter now that things are starting to set up and guys may be starting to creep out on the bays and smaller water.   I did some more poking around on Pike Bay this morning and I don't have anything much new to report. We've got less than an inch of fluffy snow on the ice and things healed up after the warm front this week. I worked my way from shore out into the middle of the bay and ice was relatively uniform between 5.25 and 5.5 inches of nice clear ice. Earlier this week I checked all landings on the Tower end and everything was iced up except for open water way out in Big Bay appearing to mostly be all West of Birch/Ely islands. Not sure if all the recent strong winds from North and South have changed that status though. I'm still sticking with my original guess of December 2 for my first trip off McKinley on 5 inches.   Good luck this winter to all and Be Safe!
    • monstermoose78
      Bummer 
    • eyeguy 54
        click below to check different areas. there are maps to click on also.  just scroll to find. pretty neat tool.    http://www.dnr.state.mn.us/cwdcheck/index.html
    • ANYFISH2
    • Rancid Crabtree
      extended forecasts look good up north. We won't have fish-able ice in the metro until at least the 2nd weed in December assuming no dramatic temp changes. The big Expo is Dec1-3 but temps look promising ~1.5hrs north. I wonder if the ability to go fishing might impact the amount of traffic at the show!
    • Kettle
      There's preliminary testing then if flagged it gets shipped to a lab I believe in CO to verify the results.
    • Chill62
      10 day forecast doesn't show anything with low temps below 15 degrees.  It might make ice but it wont be making it necessarily fast.
    • Nix769
      Thanksgiving would be nice...but first week of December still works!   Rogers on Red is already allowing wheelers and sleds...no side by sides yet.
    • leech~~
    • Rick
      A 30-foot-tall white spruce, selected as the state’s official Christmas tree, was cut down today in the General C.C. Andrews State Forest, near Willow River.  The tree will be set up at the governor’s residence, 1006 Summit Ave., St. Paul, around 9 a.m., Monday, Nov. 20. The tree will be lit Monday, Nov. 27. DNR staff and the Conservation Corps of Minnesota cut the tree on the Friday before Thanksgiving each year from one of 59 state forests. However, the search for just the right tree begins months before. DNR foresters keep an eye out for a tall tree that’s nicely shaped and well filled out. It also needs to be in a location where it will not be damaged when dropped and then easily pulled out and loaded onto a trailer. Minnesota’s state forests provide clean air and water, recreational opportunities, wildlife habitat, timber and special forest products. This year, small businesses are making 150,000 wreaths with balsam boughs harvested from state forest lands. The estimated annual sales for Minnesota companies producing holiday wreaths exceed $23 million and Minnesota’s public lands support a large share of this economic activity. Each holiday season, half a million Christmas trees are harvested from private tree farms in Minnesota, contributing about $30 million to the state’s economy. For each tree harvested, one to three trees are planted. Real Christmas trees store carbon during their lifespan. They can be chipped for mulch when the season is over, making them an environmentally friendly choice.
      More information and details on viewing the tree is on the state Christmas tree page. Discuss below - to view set the hook here.