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Sutty

Opti-Oil

12 posts in this topic

Do all of you Optimax guys run the mercury 2-stroke plus oil or are there other options Amsoil etc?

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I have run nothing but Amsoil HPI and have put over 1000 hours on twin 225's in 3 seasons. Have had no problems at all. I buy it by the 16 gallon size and its alot cheaper than Merc oil. Almost no smoke or odor, 200+ hours out of spark plugs and still clean. I'd recommend it for any optimax.

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I'll toss out a different opinion. I don't let Amsoil near my outboards. I use oil specifically made for 2-stroke DFI motors.

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The HPI is specifically for DFI engines, Amsoil produces numerous 2 cycle motor oils, HPI is recommended for Optimax. I've had good luck with it, I like the fact that it is 100% synthetic rather than a blend, and its cheaper to boot. Just stating my results, I don't sell the stuff. We have lots of choices, I chose this product.

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If I am going to drop about 25 bucks a gallon for the stuff I would rather have it 100% synthetic.

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The AMSOIL HPI is designed for EFI and DFI outboards. It is full synthetic, using ester base synthetic base stocks (made from agricultural byproducts). It is ashless, burns away clean and leaves no carbon behind. It prevents "ring jacking" a problem common to DFI engines.

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I'd have to agree with you. I have an old Green Johnson and a 1998 Johnson 90 2 stroke. I use the oil recommended in the owners manual and have never had a single problem.

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Is HP the same thing as HPI. I picked up a gallon at fleet farm for around 25 bucks and the label I believe just stated HP, it also listed on the back that it was OK to use with DFI motors including optimax's. I had read on the amsoil website that HPI was what I was looking for??

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It's AMSOIL HPI for my 150 Opti. I prefer full-synthetic. No problems for me in 2 1/2 years. Exhaust smell is almost non-existant.

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Yes, HP, HPI both mean the same thing. Actually the "name" is HP Injector, the "product code" is HPI, followed by a package designator. -qt for a quart, -01 for case of 12 quarts, -1G for a gallon, -04 for a case of 4 gallons, -16 for a 16 gallon keg, -30 for a 30 gallon drum, -55 for a 55 gallon drum. Some of the prices will have the 'dash' included, sometimes you see it without the 'dash'.

Lowest prices, contact me privately, e-mail address below.

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Oilman, can you mix Opti oil and AMSOIL? or do you have drain out all the Opti oil first?

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Yes, maybe, probably, ?? General and overall answers here, I don't have specific brand change-over data.

The 'official' AMSOIL Inc. answer is yes but you should minimize mixing. Actually, this should be true and followed for changing between any brands. Technically and chemically you should be able to mix any Petroleum based, PAO based synthetic and Ester based synthetics, but there may be enough differences, including additives, that you should not mix 1/2 tank with 1/2 tank of anything. AMSOIL 2-cycle oil is Ester based, I don't know the base of Opti (I have checked their website and the only thing they talk about is their trade name of their additives).

The reality, when changing brands, with many oil-injected outboards, the oil tank is difficult to remove and drain, or at the least a very sloppy ugly messy job. My recommendation - carry the new oil with you, use the existing oil down to your warning light/buzzer system goes off, then top with your new oil. This is the safe way to change and minimize mixing. NEVER take a chance on running out of oil!!!!!!

This said, frown.gif I have heard 1 report of a different brand of synthetic outboard injection oil NOT MIXING with an unknown brand of oem? oil - on a FM forum a month or two ago.

edited to correct typo.

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