Guests - If You want access to member only forums on FM. You will gain access only when you Sign-in or Sign-Up on Fishing Minnesota.

It's easy - LOOK UPPER right menu.

Sign in to follow this  
Followers 0
bhs91

lower unit

17 posts in this topic

I was changing the gear oil in my lower unit, as I have done for the last 15 years, but this time something new happened. I was using a hand pump that was attached to a bottle of gear oil, pumping away and it came out the vent hole, i put in the vent screw, gave it one more pump and then it started to come out the black vents that are on both sides of the lower unit confused.gif. As I said, I have never had this happen and now am a little concerned that something busted on the inside. Anyone else have this happen to them? Did I break something, or is there an over flow part for dummies like me. Also, I assume the black vents are water intake vents, should I pull them and clean them out?

Thanks,

BHS

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You have the same problem I have, and I believe it is blown seals...

My warranty just was up last fall.

I just discovered my problem this morning.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

What does something like this cost to repair?

BHS

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I had to replace my lower unit seals this winter, cost was around $500. It was about half and half labor/parts. If you can do it yourself or have a buddy that'll do it for a case of beer or 6 you'll save yourself a lot of money. I'm not sure it makes a difference but the motor I had was a 2001 80 hp yamaha.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Depending on the size and age of the motor a seal kit could be around 40 dollars. If it is a basic seal cost could be as low as 200 dollars however prime season is upon us and it might be tough to find a dealer that will be able to work on it in the next month. If you have ever removed the lower unit to service the water pump I would remove the water pump and see if you can duplicate the problem. If it is the drive shaft seal that has gone bad that is usually an easy seal to replace. Remove drive shaft, pry old seal out with a screw driver and tap new one in with a deep socket and you are done. A seal is probably around 10 bucks. What is the year and make of the motor?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

2004 70hp 2 stroke yamaha.

I am not very mechanically inclined, IE I can change oil and plugs in my boats and cars, but that is about it.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Sounds like you forced gear oil through the shift rod seal or the water pump seal when you continued to pump oil with the vent screw in.

It might be fine or you might have pushed a seal or o-ring out.

Get the seal kit, a manual, and while you have it apart you may as well replace the impeller.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Wow...Mine is a 2003 70 hp 2 stroke Yamaha. What a coincidence.

The drive shaft seal is $6, the shift shaft seal is $6 and the prop seal is $4. The drive and shift seals are back to back seals, so you need 2 each. I'll put in a new water pump too while I am in there, $25, and I know I have alot more hours on my engine then the years indicates.

I called 9 places today before finding someone that had the seals in stock.

So I am on my way now to get them. Otherwise, it is 5 days to get from Yamaha.

And like ST said, if you want a dealer to do it for you, expect about a 3 week lead time, or find a small place, like the one in Albertville.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

No kit for Yamaha.

A1 in Annandale is the only place I found with the seals in stock.

$63 for all 5 seals, a gasket, and a water pump, plus gear lube.

Shop time would be about 2 hours labor plus parts and tax, so figure $180 for labor, + $65 for parts + shop supplies.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I am up in Brainerd and have a guy that I have used before and does a great Job. I have had him work on my old Yamaha and he has been reliable and reasonable. I brought it to him today and I will have it by Friday. Also, I am having him change the impeller as well.

Thanks for the info though!

BHS

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

New lower unit seals, new impeller, $275.00. My stupidity, so I'll pay for it, but I already have it back and will have it on the water this weekend. Lesson for me, Have someone do it for me next year cool.gif

BHS

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I don't know what shops charge to change lower unit lube but you did it for a lot of years without a problem and you know not to pump it with the top screw in now so you are not likely to do it again! I am all for having a pro work on your motor but I am not one to pay 80 bucks for an oil change. Thats a lot of Rapalas

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You probably did yourself a favor. A hand pump puts out maybe 3 lbs of pressure. If that was enough to cave that seal it was going to go anyways. At least this way it happened on land without water getting in there for a whole season. Lube changes are too easy to do without having a pro do it for you. Just make sure you put new gaskets on them drain and vent screws each time.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I am also in the process of changing the oil seal (the one with the wire spring) on my 2003 90hp yamaha 2 stroke. Fishing line tore up the old one. Do i need to tap the new seal in? or push it as far as it goes Also i had to order from Bee line in St.Cloud, 5 day delivery also. How tight should the locking nut be?

Thanks

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

That's your prop shaft seal that you're talking about.

You can use a large socket to drive it down.

The lock nut only needs to be snug, and then line up the holes and replace the pin.

Did you already replace the seal? A1 in Annandale usually has them in stock.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

i got one from bee-line had to order it.

should i tap the seal in with a socket? or push in as far as i can with my fingers?

how freely should the prop turn after tightening it up?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The prop should turn as free as free can be, providing your engine is in nuetral.

The seal needs to be driven down to seat properly.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.
Sign in to follow this  
Followers 0



  • Posts

    • RuddyDuck
      Let the cold begin! Though, now I am seeing snow in the forecast for Sat evening and Sunday. Boy, hopefully that misses. 
    • Xplorer
      With the high wind's this week I really dont see much ice forming until at least the weekend.  Looking like I will be planning on hauling the ATV or sled up for the trip between Xmas and New Years again this year.  
    • Xplorer
      I went and looked at a couple smaller 'early ice" lakes in the Cloquet area on sunday afternoon and there is nothing going on, and even tho the temps are gonna get colder, the wind this week will most likely not allow any of them to cap off til at least the weekend. Looking like its gonna be closer to Xmas before I'll be walking out for early ice this year (that's 6" for me LOL)
    • vanwalleye
      I asked my sales guys that question a couple weeks back, when I picked up mine and he told me 4-6 hrs, I'm guessing that can change depending on the temps and stuff
    • ZachD
      I am guessing he is using the vexilar edge or whatever the open water graph is called since he said he has fish alarm Personally I never use fish alarm or fish id on electronics   I am no expert either but here are some images that may help you