Guests - If You want access to member only forums on FM. You will gain access only when you Sign-in or Sign-Up on Fishing Minnesota.

It's easy - LOOK UPPER right menu.

  • Announcements

    • Rick

      Members Only Fluid Forum View   08/08/2017

      Fluid forum view allows members only to get right to the meat of this community; the topics. You can toggle between your preferred forum view just below to the left on the main forum entrance. You will see three icons. Try them out and see what you prefer.   Fluid view allows you, if you are a signed up member, to see the newest topic posts in either all forums (select none or all) or in just your favorite forums (select the ones you want to see when you come to Fishing Minnesota). It keeps and in real time with respect to Topic posts and lets YOU SELECT YOUR FAVORITE FORUMS. It can make things fun and easy. This is especially true for less experienced visitors raised on social media. If you, as a members want more specific topics, you can even select a single forum to view. Let us take a look at fluid view in action. We will then break it down and explain how it works in more detail.   The video shows the topic list and the forum filter box. As you can see, it is easy to change the topic list by changing the selected forums. This view replaces the traditional list of categories and forums.   Of course, members only can change the view to better suit your way of browsing.   You will notice a “grid” option. We have moved the grid forum theme setting into the main forum settings. This makes it an option for members only to choose. This screenshot also shows the removal of the forum breadcrumb in fluid view mode. Fluid view remembers your last forum selection so you don’t lose your place when you go back to the listing. The benefit of this feature is easy to see. It removes a potential barrier of entry for members only. It puts the spotlight on topics themselves, and not the hierarchical forum structure. You as a member will enjoy viewing many forums at once and switching between them without leaving the page. We hope that fluid view, the new functionality is an asset that you enjoy .
Sign in to follow this  
Scott M

Winterizing, Summerizing, etc.

Recommended Posts

Scott M    3
Scott M

Hey Valv, Surface Tension, et al.,

Please post (and maybe pin at the top) some good tips for winterizing boats, and "summerizing" ice augers, as examples. That would be great for those who don't know, good reminders for those who do, and you never know what new trick you'll learn from someone. I thought of this as I start thinking about putting away the old ice auger. We've had some good times and cut some good holes. I hope I can run her a few more times this winter/spring.

For the auger: My plan is to run her dry, wipe down the whole unit, and add fuel stabilizer to whatever is left in my gas can. (Although I've heard that StaBil is only good for 90 days?)

Any other tips?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Surface Tension    263
Surface Tension

Putting the auger away for summer is easy.

You can go about it a few ways. Either way you should add a fuel stabilizer to non-oxygenated gas, then run the auger till that mixture gets into the carb.

Even is you plan on draining the gas out of the tank and running the engine till all that gas is gone there always some gas left so its better to have that little bit of gas treated with a stabilizer.

If you plan on leaving the gas in your tank then pull the air filter cover off the carb. While the auger is running a give it some throttle and spray a engine fogger into the carb. Do it in short bursts till the engine bogs a little. Then continue to spray till the engine quits. 2 strokes get there lubrication from the oil mixed in the gas. When that gas enters the carb it goes through the crank case first then through ports it pulled into the cylinder. That fogging you just did put a layer of protection in the crank bearing and cylinder walls. Your good go. If you'd like you can pull the spark plug and shoot a fogging agent into that, replace spark plug.

Another way is to store the auger with no gas. As stated earlier you should still have run non-oxygenated gas with a stabilizer through the system. Next drain the gas tank and start the auger, let run till it runs out of gas. After it quits choke the auger and run it again to try and get that last little bit of gas out. Remember that the fogging agent hasn't been run through the crank. You'll have to remove the air filter cover and spark plug. Spray the fogging agent into the carb(open the throttle) and slow pull the starter rope, do this a few times to try and get that into the crank, next spray through the spark plug hole while pulling the starter rope. Replace the spark plug. Your done. While you have that spark plug out look at the numbers on it and get yourself a new plug for next season. After you burn that fogging agent out, replace the spark plug.

4 strokes get the lube from the oil in the crank case.

Do the same gas treatment and run the auger. Fogging the crank isn't necessary so pull the spark plug and spray the fogging agent into the hole. Replace plug and drain and replace the oil while the engine is still warm.

If you like you can spray the auger blades down with WD-40 to prevent runst.

Another way to summerize your auger is to put it in the corner of the garage and hope for the best next winter. grin.gif Actually if you treat the gas and run the auger a few times during the summer then that isn't so bad. Starting the auger gets new lube into the crank and cylinder walls.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
harvey lee    13
harvey lee

I have always liked to put it away with some stabilizer and start it every month or so. This has always worked very well with every auger I have owned.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
DinkADunk    0
DinkADunk

Adding stabilizer to old gas (older than 30 days) does no good. Add stabilizer to fresh gas when you buy it and it should be good for roughly a year.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Eric Wettschreck    0
Eric Wettschreck

Quote:

Another way to summerize your auger is to put it in the corner of the garage and hope for the best next winter


Frank, I had no idea you were in my garage last July. grin.gif

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
McGurk    1
McGurk

Now that we are using Amsoil Sabre Pro in some of our 2-strokes, I think we need a little clarification on Stabil use with Sabre. I seem to remember reading here that the Oilman stated that the additives in Sabre are enough of a preservative for mixed gas. I also think he said that Stabil is both not required and not recommended if you are currently using Sabre. Please correct me if I am wrong.

As far as keeping the gas in the tank, I'd rather dump any mixed gas into a nearly full vehicle gas tank and pay for fresh gas in the fall instead of adding Stabil to keep old gas around. Or empty the tank into your mixed-gas gas can and use it for the chainsaw/weed whip/etc. in summer. We're talking a matter of less than a dollar of gas in the auger tank that we are trying to save (except for the mid-summer starters grin.gif).

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
theoilman    0
theoilman

Who has been reading my mind? I have just been preparing a "Lube Tip" for "Off Season Protection (2-stroke and 4-stroke engines)" that will be e-mailed to those who have communicated direct with me, but since it has been brought up, I will also post it here.

The additional question in this thread is concerning the use of Stabil. I do not know the storage capabilities of this product. AMSOIL does have Gasoline Stabilizer which gives up to 18 months protection (see below). However, most people find it is unnecessary when using Saber Professional in their 2-stroke machines. I have had reports from many people about engines being set aside with no preparation other than they had been using Saber Professional and they can start the next season just by cranking the engine - and easily. For best insurance use the stabilizer too.

If you would like to be added to my list to receive my "Lube-tips" direct (a couple of e-mails a month) drop me a note via my e-mail direct link at the bottom of this post requesting them.

--------------------------------------------

Lube Tip: Equipment Storage . (Both 2-stroke and 4-stroke)

Removed from this post by Don Dawson, click the link to go to my site to read it.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Orlip    3
Orlip

Quote:

You use just 1 ounce to 2.5 gallons of gasoline


Well thats great, If my tank is full I need 35 oz of stabilizer.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
riverrat56    0
riverrat56

87.5 Gallon tank?

I just go with the leave the auger in corner and start it with some of the gas from the leaf blower a few times through out the winter.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
harvey lee    13
harvey lee

I go through all the steps to help my motors get through the off season. It doesnt cost much at all and for what these toys cost why not give them all the protection you can.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
aprowl    0
aprowl

how about a list for snowmobiles,used only one weekend this year,two not used at all...how should i summerize em......

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Surface Tension    263
Surface Tension

There is a thread in the sleding forum that goes into details about summarizing.

Open the hood and look to see if mice chewed up or nested in the foam rubber between the air box and hood.

Sleds that haven't been used for two years, IMO then need to be run. I'd drain all the gas and put it in my truck. Fill with fresh gas, treat it and then run the sled. Let it idle for 5 minutes. Watch the temps if you have liquid cooled. Running the engine gets oil back on the cylinder wall and bearings. Now pull the plugs and fog the cylinders while tuning the engine over. Replace the plugs. I put tape over exhaust to keep the mice out. I spray the muffler down with WD-40. Armor-all the seat and let it soak into the stitching then wipe down.

Grease all the zerks if you haven't done that. Remove the belt and lift the track off the ground.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Orlip    3
Orlip

Quote:

87.5 Gallon tank?


Actually the specs from the factory say it holds 88

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Never Enough Time to Fish    0
Never Enough Time to Fish

Has anyone ever heard of fogging an outboard motor by running gas mixed with the fogging agent through the motor for 10 to 15 minutes? What type of fogging agent is used to do this? Does this do as good of a job as the traditional way of fogging the motor? Thanks.

Never Enough.....

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
geo17    0
geo17

i winterized my boat myself this year for the first time. i recently moved up from florida so not much to worry about freezing down there. everything went fine, until i moved the oil in my drain container and noticed some water that seperated from the oil. it wasn't an alarming amount but noticeable. is this normal?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Surface Tension    263
Surface Tension

NETF, never heard of doing it by mixing the fogging agent into the gas. Going through the carb till the point that engine stalls ensures a heavy coat in the crank and its components.

geo, was the oil drained from the lower unit or 4 stroke motor oil. If you noticed it in the lower unit then is must have sat a long time, long enough to separate. At some time you'll want to have the seals replaced or pressure test the lower unit to see which seal is leaking and replace that one. I usually just replace all of them and since your in there replace the impeller too. If you continue to use the outboard with a slight leak then you should check it often.

Water in the crank, 4 stroke outboards run at low temps and are known to have some moister/condensation build up.

If heard that it can actually build up to the point where the oil level becomes high. That seems extreme to me and I'd never let it get to that point.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
geo17    0
geo17

it was from my two stroke lower unit. i also noticed the amount i put back in was more than i took out. engine runs great. no over smoking. i will take it in after winter and get that stuff checked out though. i used the boat about a week and a half before this so it didn;t sit that long.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
boatfixer    0
boatfixer

Quite a few years back, I believe OMC has some concoction combining 2+4 and fogging oil in the gas. It was intended for dealers, using a separate gas tank so you didn't store your gas with fogging oil. Not completely sure though. But I would still recommend to anyone to fog through the carbs and treat gas the conventional way.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Scott M    3
Scott M

Those are great winterizing tips for motors and summerizing tips for augers. How about tips for bringing your boat out of storage? I'm planning to grease up the bearing buddies, vacuum again, refill with fresh gas, top off the oil, and run the garden hose with ear muffs pretty soon. Anything else?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
JimBuck    0
JimBuck

Good idea da_chise on reviving this thread. Besides what you said. I go over the trailer with a wrench and make sure all bolts are fastened securely.....I had an incident happen last spring on the way to the lake for the first time...one of the bolts loosened up enough to break in half under pressure from exiting the Super America parking lot. Luckily it was only a right rear bolt leaving the prop and lower unit just 2 inches from certain disaster. 2 hours and 3 car jacks later we replaced the bolt, made it to the lake and caught our limit. Anyone else care to chime in on preventative maintenence for the upcoming season?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
hitthebricks    0
hitthebricks

How about a 200 Merc opti with direct fuel and oil injection? What steps should I take to winterize it correctly? Also do I really need to treat the gas in the tank (30 gal.) and fill and treat the rest (another 30 gal.)?

Later HTB

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
marine_man    1
marine_man

Check out this thread:

Winterizing

With respect to treat the gas in the tank - if you don't fill the tank you run the risk of condensation forming in the tank from not being full. If you have water / fuel seperator it's not an issue. If you don't, well, then you might have to see how it goes in spring.

marine_man

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Ed Carlson    0
Ed Carlson

2-stroke or 4-stoke I recommend using the New Sta-bill Blue in the mix all season, and for storage.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Dano2    0
Dano2

In Ricks winterizing tip #17."Open all hatches. Place an open bag or two of charcoal in the bilge and in any other enclosed areas. It won't hurt the opened area's either."

Why would one do this?

Just regular charcoal like Kingsford or whatever?

Thanks

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

Sign in to follow this  



  • Posts

    • gimruis
      Here are some of the toads we have been catching on the Rum River this summer.  The biggest has been 19 1/4 inches.
    • gimruis
      I agree with rudrave, a boat will open up a lot more opportunities to fish off shore.  You could get a brand new 16 foot fishing boat with a 25 hp motor and a basic sonar unit with trailer for about $10 grand and that sort of rig would get you on a lot of small to medium-sized lakes in addition to rivers around here.
    • Fish Head
      Enjoy your well-deserved retirement Ace. I'm glad we'll still be hearing from you.          
    • Rick
      The Minnesota Department of Natural Resources has confirmed Hubbard County’s first case of Eurasian watermilfoil, an invasive aquatic plant, in Bad Axe Lake near Emmaville. DNR invasive species specialists confirmed Eurasian watermilfoil around the resort access to the lake. They reported it did not appear to be widespread into other areas of the lake. Eurasian watermilfoil can limit recreational activities on water bodies by forming mats on the water surface, and can alter aquatic ecosystems by displacing native plants. It is typically spread when plant fragments have not been properly cleaned from trailered boats, personal watercraft, docks, boat lifts, anchors or other water-related equipment. Treatment options include selective herbicides and mechanical removal, to minimize the plant’s impact while protecting native aquatic plant species. Treatment is unlikely to eradicate Eurasian watermilfoil from a lake. It may minimize impacts, but rarely prevents broader dispersion within a lake. This new confirmation is a reminder to boaters and anglers to follow Minnesota laws to prevent the spread of aquatic invasive species: Clean aquatic plants and animals from watercraft. Drain all water by removing drain plugs and keep drain plugs out while transporting watercraft. Dispose of unwanted bait in the trash. Some invasive species are small and difficult to see at the access. To remove or kill them, take one or more of the following precautions before moving to another waterbody, especially after leaving infested waters: Spray with high-pressure water. Rinse with very hot water (120 degrees Fahrenheit for at least two minutes or 140 degrees Fahrenheit for at least 10 seconds). Dry for at least five days. Details about Eurasian watermilfoil and other aquatic invasive species are available at mndnr.gov/ais. Discuss below - to view set the hook here.
    • vikingmeatwad
      Did you find any? Let me know where you are located and contact info. Also what size is preferred?
    • BobT
      A popular method that I've seen is to use a slip bobber with minnows, leeches, or crawlers. Four-mile bar seems to be a popular destination but also try working along weed edges. You probably noticed the weedline is about 14' - 15' down so working those edges can be productive. Just my thoughts.
    • BobT
      The purpose for having fuses is to protect the wires and/or downstream devices from over-current situations. When an over-current situation exists the wires can be exposed to higher current than what they are rated to handle and the resulting heat will likely melt the insulation and possibly cause it to burst into flame, which can spread to an on-board fire destroying your boat and everything in it.  A fuse that repeatedly blows when replaced is a good indicator that there is a situation that needs to be resolved. You need to find out what is causing the over-current situation and resolve it. Putting in a higher rated fuse does NOT solve the problem. The wires are rated to a maximum current level and the over-sized fuse will allow excessive current to flow over the wires, which is no better than just getting rid of the fuses. Do not do this.  
    • Capt. Quicksteel
      Have a great retirement Ace. Really glad to hear you'll still stay on the forum!!  
    • SkunkedAgain
      When CigarGuy first showed up on these forums, I stopped by and introduced myself but I think that he was either on his dock or just hopping into the boat. I haven't visually seen him in a few years, but I did see the Mrs. Cigar Guy and another assembling a sitting bench earlier this summer! Some day I'll stop by to share a cocktail.   As for the people boating in close, here are my two Vermilion observations: 1) There are known spots on Vermilion. People go to those whether there are zero boats or ten boats there. If I am on a known spot, I don't get upset when others show up and fish close. If I am working a non-typical spot and others show up because they see you catch a fish, I do get a bit testy as well. 2) Navigation channels tend to hold fish, attracting boats that are fishing and boats that are moving. As a fisherman, I accept that people are going to boat close by in established navigation paths. I do get upset when people go through tight areas on plane or even just below it. I always try to follow a no-wake policy when going through tight areas such as Fectos or others. Our place is in Black Bay and the pinch between Black Bay and the Partridge River typically has boats. I'll come off plane and go nice and slow past boats. Treat others as you want to be treated. Preaching to the choir....I know
    • rundrave
      move back to SD and then buy the boat You dont need to drop $50k on a new boat just to enjoy the water. I have just as much fun fishing about of a super old $500 aluminum boat with a trolling motor as I do fishing in a fully decked out Ranger. There are of course pros and cons to each but you can fish out of both and that's all that matters. And nothing is better than getting away from shore fishing it just opens up so many more opportunities to catch fish.