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scotta

Best trap for the money

14 posts in this topic

Im brand new to trapping. Ive been slowly buying traps. I havnt been able to find used traps at a decent price so I have been buying new ones. Ive noticed a big differnce in price between the duke and the bridger. A veteran trapper told me to go with the bridger because they are a better trap. Is there any truth to this. Both brands are made overseas. I have 1/2 dozen duke1.5,and 10 bridger 1.65. I plan on using these for coon or fox. Im now going to be looking at #3s for beaver and coyote.What do you guys use and recomend for trap brands. thanks

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if you are going to spend the money you should look at Minnesota Trapline products these guys make some nice traps

www.minntrapprod.com

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Scott, if you are talking about trapping fox and coyotes, my money would be on the 1 3/4 victor traps. It's my opinion, this is the best trap made, and is worth the extra money.

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I use the Duke 1 1/2 for coon and fox and I havnt had any problems with them, they are a middle line price and seem to be pretty good quality. I take pretty good care of my traps too so i am not sure how they would handle if you abuse them a lot. I also have about a dozen victors that have lasted me about 8 years and are still as good as when i bought them.

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I use 75% dukes in the early season. THey work for me. HOWEVER, you do have to add some extra swivels to the chain. If you want a trap you can take out of the box and do very little to I would go with sleepy creeks. I use SC 1.75 once our snow gets deep. They are really strong and come up nicely.

there is my 2 cents.

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Go with the Bridger's for yotes and beav's. Yotes can rip up a trap and stock Bridger will withstand the abuse. Plus, you can always add mods in the future. If you're in the north with big snows, go with the #3. If you're more to the south, go with a #2.

I know a guy that holds wolves with a stock Bridger #3!!!

I'd go even bigger with beaver though.....if you can in MN. Go with a #4 or even a #5.

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thanks for the info guys. It sounds like they are both good traps, with the bridger being a little more durable. I would like to invest in #3s for coyote. Would a # 3 work for beaver if I use it with a drowning wire? Im trying to find traps that I can use for multiple furbearers.

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A 3 isn't bad for a front leg catch, but too small for a back leg on beaver. I'd go bigger, plus, you wouldn't want to use you beaver traps for yotes and vice versa. They have to be treated differently and the yote traps have to be as clean as possible. Get yourself a book on yote trapping before you jump into it. There's a lot that goes into the process. You have to be really clean, scent free, and your traps have to be at least clean and waxed then put in clean tupperware boxes or buckets and sealed good. You HAVE to watch your scent really good. Better than deer hunting if you ask me. I never handle a trap with bare hands and I never kneel at a set. They'll dig up your trap or shy away if you're lazy. The tracks will come within feet of the set and then leave if they catch any evidence of human activity. Plus, if they smell like beaver, they'll get dug up really quick.

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The waxing is not totally necessary, you can also speed dip them. Waxing will speed up the trap though, that is for sure. I don't wax any of my traps at all. I speed dip them, works like a champ.

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I hear ya. I KBL my water traps, but I don't trust using some type of fuel for dipping. I don't want the smell on the trap at all. Waxing also cuts down on scent and helps keep them from rusting. Down here in the Midwest, you have to have every advantage possible. I assume that you're trapping a non-pressured area up there in AK. Down here they'll dig your trap up faster than you can set it if you're not overly cautious....or avoid the set all together.

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uptracker I grew up in Minnesota. Lots of guys are learning the joys of using speed dip, all over the U.S. The gas smell evaporates away rather quickly.

Believe it or not a guy in the midwest can get by with alot more scent on the trap and in the area than we can up here. When out in the "bush" the animals are not used to people and shy away at even the slightest hint that someone has been there. On most of my first sets I do not even get off the snowmachine or sled to make the set. If there is a footprint in the snow, you will not catch a thing alot of the time.

I spend alot more time worrying about oder up here than I did in Minnesota.

As far as non-pressured areas in Alaska, as big as the state is you would think it has little trapping pressure. However people who live off of the road system can hardly find a place to trap. I know guys who live in Anchorage who have to drive 5 hours one way to get to an area they can trap. In my current location there is little pressure, however my previous location in alaska there was quite a bit of pressure, so much in fact that fox was the only thing I could trap.

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best trap? I liked the V 1.75 for fox and coyote .----,set tight and deeper for fox,pad catch. out hand width same depth,. leg hold on coooooyote. (short version)that is from backing or dirt hole. best use a 1.5 for coon, smaller jaw,less chewing and loss. bevs-- 220's shallow runs, smirk.gif 330's for deeper runs.---comments leechman?

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I have to agree partner. Do you really think I would come on here and disagree with my old trapping partner? No way. I agree with everything you said. Thats a nice crappie your holding.

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Red lake, 14 ins, 2 lbs.

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