Guests - If You want access to member only forums on FM. You will gain access only when you Sign-in or Sign-Up on Fishing Minnesota.

It's easy - LOOK UPPER right menu.

Sign in to follow this  
Followers 0
Whoaru99

Need help with muzzleloader sights.

7 posts in this topic

I have a CVA Hunterbolt and I have replaced the barrel-mounted rear sight with a Williams WGRS peep sight that is mounted to the rear most factory drilled/tapped scope mount holes.

I set the rear sight to mid-height on the ramp and fired off three shots at 10 yards. 10 yards should be my first line of sight crossing according to a ballistics program so I usually make first zero at that point then fine tune in at a longer distance from there.

The problem is that with the sight at mid-way up the ramp, I'm shooting 3.25" low at 10yd. I can get almost zeroed by moving the ramp way to the top, but then I have no more adjustments for other possible loads.

So, can anyone tell me how much I have to change the front sight (will require replacement I'm thinking) to put the gun close to zeroed at 10yds?

The front sight is approximately 0.98" above the bore center, and the rear at mid-ramp is about 1.09" above bore center. The distance between the sights is about 27.75".

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have found my answer here

But I am still scratching my head how it could be off that far at only 10 yards.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Whoaru99 could you possibly tell me where you picked up the peeps for your gun? and what the cost was? are you running a hooded sight on the front of your barrel? And thats a great link on how sights work I've got a traditions smoke pole that needs a taller front sight. thanks.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The rear peep was purchased at Cabela's in Rogers. The new front sight ramp, blade, and different peep apertures were ordered from Midway.

There were some places that better prices than Midway, but they had it all in stock vs. ordering bits and pieces from a couple different places.

You might just want to check the Williams Sights website. They might have a rear peep, front Firesight kit for yours.

If you have to piece it together (rear peep, different front firesight), it'll probably be in the $50-$75 range.

My front sight is not hooded. It's a red Firesight.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I think you need to have it zero in at 50yards. All my gun when I sight/zero at 50yards will shoot 1-2" low at 10 yards even with a scope. I don't think it's your sight that has a problem, you just need to zero it at a longer distance. Once zero at 50 yards then you can make the adjustments you need.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Quote:

I think you need to have it zero in at 50yards. All my gun when I sight/zero at 50yards will shoot 1-2" low at 10 yards even with a scope. I don't think it's your sight that has a problem, you just need to zero it at a longer distance. Once zero at 50 yards then you can make the adjustments you need.


I understand what you're saying, but with a scope I can understand being 1-2" low at 10yd because your scope is typically 1.5", give or take a bit, above the bore centerline. At 10yd there is just a tiny bit of drop, and the bullet trajectory is on it's way up, so that makes sense to me to be about that low.

My open sights are only an inch, give or take, above the bore C/L. So, an inch would be the most I'd expect to be low at 10yd considering the bullet trajectory should be going up at that range.

Also, I've used the first line of sight crossing method to sight in several rifles and it's always worked pretty good. Sight for dead on at the first line of sight crossing then you are at least close on paper further down range.

I'll give it (sighting at further distance) a try this weekend, but geometrically/mathematically, that much correction is a full 1/3" at the sights and there just isn't that much adjustment left.

I'll post a trajectory graph if I can figure out how to do that.

D:\My Documents\JoesDelay.gif

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Quote:

Quote:

I think you need to have it zero in at 50yards. All my gun when I sight/zero at 50yards will shoot 1-2" low at 10 yards even with a scope. I don't think it's your sight that has a problem, you just need to zero it at a longer distance. Once zero at 50 yards then you can make the adjustments you need.


I understand what you're saying, but with a scope I can understand being 1-2" low at 10yd because your scope is typically 1.5", give or take a bit, above the bore centerline. At 10yd there is just a tiny bit of drop, and the bullet trajectory is on it's way up, so that makes sense to me to be about that low.

My open sights are only an inch, give or take, above the bore C/L. So, an inch would be the most I'd expect to be low at 10yd considering the bullet trajectory should be going up at that range.

Also, I've used the first line of sight crossing method to sight in several rifles and it's always worked pretty good. Sight for dead on at the first line of sight crossing then you are at least close on paper further down range.

I'll give it (sighting at further distance) a try this weekend, but geometrically/mathematically, that much correction is a full 1/3" at the sights and there just isn't that much adjustment left.

I'll post a trajectory graph if I can figure out how to do that.


Here's the chart that shows the trajectory being 1st zero at 10yd. The flatter trace is my scoped .223 for reference.

Zeroed1.gif

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.
Sign in to follow this  
Followers 0



  • Posts

    • BobT
      I believe minnows are a class of fish that remain small throughout their lives. They are part of the food chain and because of their small size we take advantage of their position in the ecosystem and use them for bait. There are exceptions of course but, as an example, for the most part adult golden shiners will typically grow to about 3" - 5" long. Adult fathead minnows will be 2" - 3" long typically. 
    • Cliff Wagenbach
      If the hoses or hose connections are not leaking check : Live well intake connection, make sure that it is screwed on tight into the transom and that it is sealing. Could be live well splash over also if you are in rough water, but probably not with your type of leak. It may still be leaking rivets as they may not leak unless you put a lot of water inside of the boat. It does sound like you have a bad connection in one of your live well connections! Cliff    
    • Mossy19
      Just wondering if any one will give me pointers on this lake??  Not specific spots.  Going to be at Pocahontas Resort July 1 - July 8th.  I am bass guy for most part but have kids (6 & 4) that love to fish for panfish and want them to keep entertained.  Any tips or information would be greatly appreciated!!!  Thanks! 
    • Mossy19
      Hello FM family!!  I HAVE A 2000 18.5' Fisher DXV boat and am having problems of water getting into the boat.  I have filled up the bottom of the boat with water to see if something is cracked on the boat itself and have found nothing.  It seems like the only time water comes in is when I use live well pumps. I have a guy replacing all the hoses that would have water going through them to see if one is cracked.  The water that comes in is enough that I have to run the bilge pump about every half and hour.  If I forget to run bilge then I have so much water I can't get up on plane when I take off.  Once the hoses are replaced and water still gets in, what would be my next step??  Cracked livewells??? I have two of them in this boat.  Any ideas??  Thanks!
    • birdguy
      I'm doing a day trip there on Saturday, will post afterwards. I plan to just fish the big basin area humps and points.
    • Poutwhacker
      Just looking for general advice... Taking our grandson on his 1st Rainy Lake boat camping trip, 7/01-7/05. We'll be near Kempton Entrance on the east side. I've been here many times before, but never over the 4th. Plan to target all species, but want 'eyes for supper. Are the walleyes on the reefs yet or still transitioning? Depths? Leeches or minnows? Bass/pike still in shallows? Main goal is to give him some opportunities for some fish. Thanks 'Pout
    • Luttes
      Hay Creek in Red Wing is probably your closest option.  Otherwise the Kinni, Rush, etc, just over the boarder in Wi is a good fishery. 
    • paceman
      I was kind of restless last night so since it was a bit windy I decided to go for a quick trip to a nearby small lake that I rarely go to. Tried lindy rigging leeches but the sunfish were on the chomp! I eventually went to a shallow weed point and marked a bunch of fish. Started pitching small jigs/plastics and absolutely pounded the crappies. I have never in my life caught so many small ones. Lots of 5-7" with the occasional big one 13-14" mixed in... I did not feel like cleaning fish so tossed all back. Should be a phenomenal crappie lake in a couple years...
    • Cheers
    • leech~~
      Welcome Rachelkate21 to the forum.  "brooks/steams/rivers that would be full of trout?" That is a pretty high order around Lakeville or anywhere. You may have to go south of you around Whitewater or up north in the arrowhead area. Best bet is check out the MN DNR site for Trout streams and their locations within the state. Good Luck!