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Gadgetman

ProV transom rotting

13 posts in this topic

Much to my dismay I just discovered that the transom on my '97 ProV is rotten. To the point that I am going to have to get it replaced...how many other people have had this problem? Is it just Lund or do other metal boat mfgs have this issue. It appears to me that the transom cap they put on isnt capable of doing the job of keeping the water out of the transom space. And why they still us plywood in this location is beyond me, even if it is marine grade. I am really bummed out as it is going to cost me over $2500 by the time I get it all taken care of. Argghhhh

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no negativity against lund but had a buddy with a pro v six yrs old and he spent 3500 redoing his....sorry for ur luck u would think they could use some higher grad alum in place of plywood.

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Why dun you call Lund and tell them the problem that you are having? BTW, how did you know that it is rotting?

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I found out that it was rotting because I accidentally bent the transom cap, the little piece of aluminium that is folded over the transom to keep water from getting in there. When I took off the cap to replace it it was very obvious that it was rotten. I have called lund and they tell me that it is out of warranty and that the warranty was for the original owner only. The real kicker is that the replacement will be built the same way as the one that failed and they will only warranty the new one for ONE year. I believe I am in the area known as "between a rock and a hard place". Cant hardly use the boat in the condition it is in for fear of a major catastrophy,and cant sell it due to liability issues. Now I have a much better understanding of why they say a boat is a hole in the water you throw money into....had I not bent the thing in the first place I wouldnt know about it and would continue to use the boat as usual. Cant imagine what would happen if a guy was blasting thru some 3 foot waves on mille lacs or winni with a transom in that shape. Also makes me wonder how many other guys have the same problem and dont know about it. I guess ignorance is bliss.

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shocked.gif $2500!?!? shocked.gif I have a policy of never criticizing competitors, and I'm not about to now, but being in the same business, I can't figure out how it's going to cost $2500 to replace that transom. I would shop around your area before paying that much. It just sounds really high. Most of the 'glass boats that we do don't cost that much, and alum boats run about half of the price of 'glass. Like I said, I'm not trying to bash the other guy, or steal business, I just know what I know and I hate to see a fellow fm'er pay way more than they should have to just because of the situation they're in.

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Here check this thread out, some people on FM have replaced there transom themselves and saved alot of $$$. web page

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Take it to Steve Bakken, you will not be disappointed.

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I would at the very least talk to Steve about it or get another quote somewhere else. If businesses are going to try and charge 2500 bucks to do this kind of work I am going to change professions. Not really, but, it gives a guy something to think about.

Realistically though, I did mine in a little over 24 hours. The first time doing one of this size, I did the transom on a 1963 12 ft. Crestliner a few years ago. and the bigger project was a 1982 16 ft. Sylvan with a 75 h.p. motor.

I noticed mine was rotting when I put the transom saver on the motor and when applying a little bit of force to the transom it would flex inwards. When I took it apart it came out in pieces, all squishy, thank goodness the aluminum held up.

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As far as doing it myself I dont feel comfortable with this type of job. I have a 200hp optimax on the back and dont want to risk doing anything wrong. If it was one of my other boats and was as simple as cutting a small piece of plywood and bolting it on I would have done it already. Unfortunately due to the size/weight and torque that this motor is capable of generating I think that it needs to be done professionally. I did talk with Richard (Steves father I believe) this a.m. and am thinking about making a trip down to their shop and let them take a look at it. Sounded like a very well versed guy and indicated that it shouldnt cost nearly as much as I had been quoted by the mfg. Plus I have a buddy with some farmland down there that needs somehelp with his pheasant control program cool.gif

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One thing to note here... the root cause of your problem could be as simple as not enough silicone around your motor mounting holes. It obviously could be many other things, including manufacturing defects, etc.. but if the holes around the motor aren't siliconed well (especially the lower ones) it will rot the transom over time.

marine_man

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good thought.

I had the mind set when I got into mine, that if it was going to be too difficult, I was ready to sell the boat for scrap aluminum. Sell/give the trailer away, Salvage the motor and controls.

I had basically nothing to lose, by doing it by myself and that makes a big difference in deciding what to do.

Good Luck! Not that you are going to need it.

Good point marineman, never hurts to walk around with the silicone.

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Where is Steve Bakkan Located?

Freckles

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New Richland, MN 40 miles south of MPLS

Do a Google Map search

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      We've done OK out there this year. Nothing special, but better for us than last year.  Last time out, we found piles of fish in 60-70 feet. Caught a few, couldn't release them, and stopped fishing them.  Got a couple jig rapping shallower, got a few trolling, and got a few on spinners.  No one pattern got skunked, but nothing stood out, either.
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