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BigWadeS

Keeping the Rack

22 posts in this topic

Okay, I have never shot a buck that I felt was big enough to keep the rack, I regret that now, I will probably shoot a couple does, however; if I choose to do that what is the preferred method or way to keep the rack...to either keep it in tact or to use one of those antler mounting kits...thanks for your help

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wade. i buy the kits,but only for the plague(sp??) the rest i toss( yo can use them if yo want).

then go to a fabric store, and buy a yd. of velvet cloth, and a yd. of drapery cord.( kind of looks like a wool rope) and a container of dry plaster compond( these supplies will do four racks or more. saw the scull so the antlers are attached, but you can mount a block of wood behind it,and inside it.( i leave about an inch) cut the pc. of wood so it will fit inside the scull and screw them together . take a pc. of old wood and mount the rack to it by running a screw thru the old pc. of wood into the block in the scull. then mix up some of the plaster, and start filling in around the scull, so you fill in most of the gaps( but stay below the burr on the antlers!)and work it so you have a tear drop shape or something that pleases you.the rough edges, and surfaces are ok, you'll take care of them later.let dry.( note! if you don't like the way it looks, break the plaster off and do it again!)once happy with it, let it dry. then file/sand the surfaces, and edges smooth.take a pc. of old cloth , or paper towl and cut out circles for the antlers so you get the spacing right. then transfer this onto a sq. pc. of velvet. leave extra hanging well past the edges, all the way around the plaster. take the rack off the board, and tuck the velvet behind it and staple it to the plaster.( work the fabric so there are no wrinkles, but you may have a V coming off the antlers) then srew this to the plague. next take the cord,and wrap it around the burr cutting to length. this fills in the gap between the plaster and burr.( i tie some thread around both ends of the cord so it won't unravell)i then use a glue to hold the cord in place around the antlers with the splice in the back.it sounds hard, but isn't , and doesn't really take too much time. and you will have a good looking rack, for not much money. del

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Here are a couple of picts of what I am talking about.

delrk1.jpg

delrk2.jpg

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In the last few years, I have become a fan of the European skull type mounts. The look great if you can get them on a nice piece of maple or oak.

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wks1974 at yahooooooo (contact us please) Thanks for the information on that. What tool is best to cut them out? I am guessing a hacksaw?

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A sawzall if you have one. They make QUICK work of it! My elk we did with a chain saw. That works too, but makes a mess of the saw...

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Yes,a sawzall works great.I hacve cut many a rack off with a electric chainsaw.Seemd always small ones. frown.gif

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Remember you're going to be cutting through the brain so if you're concerned about CWD wear rubber gloves and toss the saw blade when you're done.

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okay thank you for all the tips

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Delmuts, how do you prepare the skull plate once you have sawed it off the head?

I basically have a decent 8-pt skull plate that I want to mount, using your how-to guide, but it still has the skin on between the antlers. What is the best way to clean the skull/antlers/etc before you mount it and put the velvet fabric on to finish the mount?

Any help you can offer would be great, thanks!

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You got to just skin that off, just like skinning the rest of the animal. Take the hide and skin down to the skull and then you should clean that up a little too however you want too. I know some guys boil it if you have a big enough pot and can do it on a fire outside...

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I don't worry about boiling. I let it hang outside in the sun for a couple of weeks and then wash it down with soap and scrub brush. Cut a 3/4" board to the shape desired for the overall mount. You may have to trim some additional skull away or shim it up to get the desired angle of the antlers. Once your satisfied with that, drill two/three holes through the skull and fasten skull plate to board. Mix up a batch of Rock Hard Water Putty (available at Menards and other stores) and start filling under/over/around skull. You probably will have to let it set/dry a couple of times before you get to the final shape. I've done over a dozen this way over the years and works out great.

WW

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Get the skin off ASAP, its a lot easier before it dries up!!!

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i just use a knife. and trim everything off. then give it a few days for drying.i will talk to a couple guys to see if they will post some pictures of mine for you.

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hopefully in the next day or, Deitz is going to post a couple pictures of mine to hopefully give you some ideas! Thanks Deitz!

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Thanks everyone. I will be peeling the hide off this weekend and will let it dry out for a couple of weeks before I give it a final cleaning.

And delmuts, I will be trying your homemade mount this winter!

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eye. one thing is to be patient when doing this! grin.gif as said. if you're not happy with how things work out, don't be afraid to start over. Deitz is going to post pictures of the ones i've done for my kids' deer to give you some ideas! del

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I did several in a row a few years ago.

I used foam under the cloth and hot glue so I didn't have to mess with the putty/clay. The foam makes it easier to get a nice shape, like a puffed pillow.

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Another way is the European mounts, I like to do them this way, but it is a pain in the rear and rather messy...but the results are worth it.

Here are a few deer that I have shot that I did this way.

mounts005ul0.jpg

mounts004xd7.jpg

mounts003fy5.jpg

mounts002df1.jpg

mounts001oc6.jpg

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I always wanted to do a European mount but not to sure how to clean them. Got any pointers on doing this?

KSW

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Along with boiling the head or skinning it, I like to soak the skull in bleach for about a half an hour then leave it in the sun. Really makes the skull shine but be carefule you don't get any on the antlers.

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if you go back to the first page; the pictures have been posted for me in my second post. del

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    • Sorgy
      Consider me in on a personal boycott of The Landing. Horrible horrible horrible customer service skills by the owners/management. 1) it is much quieter on the water without the big blasters running up an down the lake from the Landing. 2) Had a craving for wings while out fishing one night. Called ahead ordered up some wings- great taste- tiny crappy wings. Asked for a side of Blue Cheese and Celery - upcharge of like $3.00 for those. Washed it down with a bottle of Coors Light. $23.50 Large group went in one night and they usually tear up the bar. Were told they can't play jukebox until after 10 pm it was 9:40 PM- ONLY GROUP IN THE BAR.  "They are trying to build up an Ambiance" Got their bar tab and they were done. Yearly group that dropped a lot of cash in the past. Never again until new ownership is on board. Unfortunately they have deep pockets. As soon as new ownership / management takes over the crowds will return.
    • Big V Bobcat
      That place is sinking faster than a boat anchor! I couldn't figure out why they were putting in so much money into it, especially since every time I'd drive by at dinner hour, there'd be at best 5 cars parked there. Always a good crowd at the Crescent of course. I don't mind the lack of view...since I'm usually on the lake most of the day already. I remember the days of Judd and Jack, and the place was lively and included the locals. Now it is mostly oblivious resort guests who see it as the only option. Very "pretentious" place that would be better suited in the Brainerd lakes area. My wife's co-worker told her that he was there this summer and they charged him $2 for a glass of water and .75 for mustard (in a stainless steel cup of course). I'd like to check out Wolf Bay, but I need a faster boat first! Don't even get me started on the $7 beers....
    • OhioVike
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    • FrazerBay
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    • LakeofthewoodsMN
      Walleyes and Saugers continue to move closer to the south shore. Good fishing in 23 feet of water outside the Lighthouse gap and all along the south shore. Shiner minnows in the area keeping large schools of walleyes active! The bite will continue to improve in the coming weeks. Anchoring and jigging with a shiner minnow successful with gold or pink/gold the colors of choice. Some crankbait action in the afternoons to cover water to find active schools. Lots of ducks and geese in the area as local waterfowl still around. Should expect a good northern push in a few weeks as it gets colder. The Rainy River continues to get better each day as more shiners and walleyes push into the river. Fall walleye fishing on the Rainy River can be some of the best! Sturgeon are being boated up and down the river daily.  Up at the Northwest Angle, walleye and sauger action is hot. Drifting with a bottom bouncer, spinner, and a minnow doing great. Anchoring and jigging with a minnows doing good as well. Look for deep holes and mud areas in 18-30 feet between Oak and Flag Island. Also look for points with depths of 8-18 feet as shiners have started moving into bays. On the Ontario side, walleye fishing is red hot as the feed bags are on to bulk up for the winter. Use electronics to locate schools of fish in 18 to 28 feet and use a jig and minnow. Bottom bouncers with spinners can be used to cover water to locate fish. Crappies over 15 inches are stacked up in sharp drop offs and around flooded timber in 30 feet. Muskie action has turned to trolling large minnow baits in 10-18 feet. Plenty of waterfowl in area with local birds still around.