Guests - If You want access to member only forums on FM. You will gain access only when you Sign-in or Sign-Up on Fishing Minnesota.

It's easy - LOOK UPPER right menu.

  • Announcements

    • Rick

      Members Only Fluid Forum View   08/08/2017

      Fluid forum view allows members only to get right to the meat of this community; the topics. You can toggle between your preferred forum view just below to the left on the main forum entrance. You will see three icons. Try them out and see what you prefer.   Fluid view allows you, if you are a signed up member, to see the newest topic posts in either all forums (select none or all) or in just your favorite forums (select the ones you want to see when you come to Fishing Minnesota). It keeps and in real time with respect to Topic posts and lets YOU SELECT YOUR FAVORITE FORUMS. It can make things fun and easy. This is especially true for less experienced visitors raised on social media. If you, as a members want more specific topics, you can even select a single forum to view. Let us take a look at fluid view in action. We will then break it down and explain how it works in more detail.   The video shows the topic list and the forum filter box. As you can see, it is easy to change the topic list by changing the selected forums. This view replaces the traditional list of categories and forums.   Of course, members only can change the view to better suit your way of browsing.   You will notice a “grid” option. We have moved the grid forum theme setting into the main forum settings. This makes it an option for members only to choose. This screenshot also shows the removal of the forum breadcrumb in fluid view mode. Fluid view remembers your last forum selection so you don’t lose your place when you go back to the listing. The benefit of this feature is easy to see. It removes a potential barrier of entry for members only. It puts the spotlight on topics themselves, and not the hierarchical forum structure. You as a member will enjoy viewing many forums at once and switching between them without leaving the page. We hope that fluid view, the new functionality is an asset that you enjoy .
Sign in to follow this  
anchor man

Semi-auto sticking-oil recommendation

Recommended Posts

anchor man

With the cooler temps. I'm having a problem with my Browning gold hunter sticking after the first shot and not fully chambering the second shell. I have a feeling I have a lot of junk and layers of oil Rem-oil caked in the mechanisms. Is there a good product to remove all the old oil and starting fresh with a thin coating of something new?

Thanks

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
lawdog

I'm not a fan of the Browning Gold and don't know a whole lot about the mechanism, but even as a Remington guy I'll tell you to throw that Rem Oil away (or at least not use it on moving parts). Buy Birchwood Casey Gun Scrubber and blast everything clean and let dry. Use LPS-1 (available in hardware sections) or a similar DRYING type lubricant that won't gum up in cool weather on the moving parts.

Good Luck. I know of some guys with Browning Golds that sold them because they jammed no matter what. Hopefully you don't have one that works like that!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
WaveWacker

Straight forward WD40.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
BigWadeS

I 2nd WD40 works wonders, I started using it on my semi-auto and have not had it lock up on me yet...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
eyewinder

As you probably already know, you want to go easy when applying any aerosol (or other type) gun oil.

I've had good luck with Rem Oil, WD-40, Hoppe's, etc., by simply spraying (or pouring) oil on a cotton cloth and wiping it over exposed surfaces.

On less accessible areas of the gun's action, lightly mist with the aerosol, don't overspray.

Good luck! smile.gif

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
CAJ

A guy I had out hunting this week has the same problem until we cleaned it very good and make sure you clean out the gas port with fine wire and then spray a light coat on of WD40. Not a problem after that. Gas port hole is very imp[ortant. CAJ

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
ChuckN

That gun is relatively easy to tear down (take barrel off and remove action pin/pull action out). I would tear it down and thoroughly clean the action and chamber areas.

Buy a can of Gun Scrubber and clean everything thoroughly. The solvent stinks, so don't do it inside your home. I have also used Carb Cleaner in a pinch with great results also.

IMO, WD-40 is not going to break down the oils, residues and gunk. Have tried that in a pinch and the problem re-occured fairly quickly.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Whoaru99

Break-Free CLP seems to work OK for me, but I don't have the same gun.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
loosegoose

Use WD-40.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
BigDaddy

I've never had a problem with Autos as I keep them clean and "lightly" lubed. Remember that too much lube attracts dirt.

I've been using Break-Free CLP. It is really slick, really thin, and dosen't seem to attract dirt.

This is from their site.

When the United States Military issued PD-48, a purchase description of properties for a single, multi-purpose product to maintain their weaponry, it became known as the "impossible specification" because of its severe requirements. The first product to meet the challenge - Break-Free CLP.

Break-Free's flagship product, CLP is a unique formulation of synthetic oils and individual proprietary ingredients which synergize in combination to do three important tasks simultaneously: Effectively Clean, Lubricate and Protect metal. After years of rigorous testing, CLP actually exceeded the Military's requirements and was approved as a product to meet MIL-L-63460, a new specification. Break-Free CLP is now recognized around the world as the standard by which maximum metal performance and protection is ensured.

* Penetrates and spreads along metal surfaces into every pit and crevice to undercut contamination and lift residue away where it can be removed.

* Long-lasting lubricating film dramatically reduces adhesion of sand, grit or other abrasives which cause wear and failure.

* Corrosion inhibitors prevent the formation of rust while Break-Free's unique boundary film protects metal surfaces from moisture and other contaminants.

* Specially formulated synthetic oils won't lose viscosity, dry out or stiffen up in extreme environments - such as cold, heat, dust, dirt, humidity and even salt air - keeping equipment in ready condition for months at a time.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest

Tear your gun down and clean everything well. Get rid of the Rem Oil.. that stuff is nothing but trouble in cold temperatures.

The key is keeping everything clean, and excess oil is a magnet for grime and it turns into sludge real quick when its cold out.

Clean your gun thouroughly.. dont miss anything. Try *Dry Slide* for a lubricant which is a graphite powder, or use a light coat of quality gun oil.. take your gun apart and clean it after every trip.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
BIG DS

After having repaired many a gun, I would recommend giving the gun a GOOD cleaning, make sure the gas port is completely free of restriction, and use CLP to lube and maintaing your Browning between cleanings. As stated earlier, you should clean it after every use, but not everyone takes the time so CLP is a good back-up. WD-40 is not a good choice. I have seen to many guns with rusty barrels because someone told the owner to use it to help maintain the gun. It gun oils are designed to work with the blueing to protect the metals and WD-40 seems to break down the blueing. If you do not feel comfortable breaking the gun down and cleaning it, take it to a good gun smith in your area. It doesn't cost very much.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Koldfront Kraig

I had the same problem with my Gold Hunter.

The grease in the return spring in the stock is too heavy. When it's cold it gums up and the spring doesn't work as well.

You need to pull the spring out of the stock and clean it then apply a lighter lubricant.

Be carfull, the spring is under extreme pressure. I brought it to a gun smith to do it.

I still use my Gold Hunter but I make sure I have a back up just in case. It seems like there are too many just in cases with mine.

Good luck with your Gold Hunter. No disrespect, but your going to need it.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
crewdog

seems like i'm not the only one with the same problem. For me every rime i go thru a 1 1/2 boxes of shells (sooner in cold weather) i have to break my gun down and give it a thorough cleaning. Were exactly is the gas port on the GWH? maybe i'm not focusing enough on that. since i've tried just about everything else that was mentioned here including taking and cleaning the tension spring.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
TTfromBlaine

At duck camp there was some rem oil on the table were everyone was cleaning their guns so I put some on my bolt slides crazy.gif after the first 2 drops I said noway cleaned it out and used some hoppes. but it did work good on those squeaky oarlocks grin.gif

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
lawdog

Rem Oil is excellent for storing the gun and protecting the finish. Its just not the type lube you want for the moving parts...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Koldfront Kraig

You may want to see if they make a heavier return spring.

I took mine in 2 years ago and had the spring replaced and the gas compensator spring replaced and haven't had any problems since.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
nolte

Personally, I wouldn't use wd-40 anywhere near any of my guns. It might work for a while, but will hang on to all sorts of junk and eventually gum up the action.

I agree with the use of the break free, good stuff. I also had a small bottle of some lube called Tri-Flow that I really liked, but can't find anymore of it. Rem Lube I don't like, and Rem oil is good for non-moving parts.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
TRITC

Where do you guys get Break-Free at?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Hookmaster

I got mine at Gander.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
cold one sd

I don't know where to find it anymore since I still have the can that I bought years ago, but it is called Tri Flon and has microscopic teflon beads in it and it works great. I don't use it anymore because my Benelli doesn't have the problem with hanging up when it is cold. shocked.gifgrin.gifwink.gif

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
HateHumminbird

Lawdog is right that this gun is a sticky one. I own one for turkey hunting, and the rear spring that pushes the action forward can weaken over time. This is true especially if you store it with the action open.....nono!Might want to look into that.

I tend to have to break mine down and scrub, then re-oil with a light coat of the birchwood casey product at least once per turkey season.

Joel

Joel

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
anchor man

TRITC,

I bought my Break Free at Wal-mart.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
burl

Believe it or not gasoline or white gas works realy well.Hunted with a guy for many years that used it to lube his 1100,never jamed no matter what type of load he used.Hunted in close to zero temps in late season duck hunts.At our buisness we have had to have some of our cnc machinery rebuilt,the guy that works on the machines allways uses white gas to to clean and at asembly.Says it does leave some lubricating film but is realy light.Burl.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.
Sign in to follow this  



  • Posts

    • opsirc
      Any new ice reports?  Looking For s something about Nicholas or strand
    • rundrave
      what if you pull a wheel house to Mn from out of state or are a non resident?
    • Hoey
      I am noodling this same concept over.  I am thinking either a dedicated (portable) battery, since I may be pulling on shore to the ice with the 4-wheeler or a hand, boat-type winch, not always hooked up to the truck.  
    • Hoey
      Copy that!
    • Hoey
      Wow that is great to know.  Thanks for sharing.  Nothing like learning the laws from a CO on the lake.
    • birdguy
      Per the DNR news release dated November 20th:  “Wheeled fish houses, which formerly were considered portable – and thus excluded from licensing requirements for shelters – will now need to be licensed,” said Al Stevens, fisheries survey and systems consultant with the Minnesota Department of Natural Resources. “In the past, anglers using wheelhouses could use them without shelter licenses as long as they were occupied, including overnight.” The change pursued by the DNR and enabled by 2017 legislation accompanied hunting and angling fee increases. An annual resident shelter license is $16. A three-year license is $43. Owners of houses to be rented pay $31 annually or $88 for a three-year license. A valid license tag must be attached to the outside of the fish house in a readily visible location. ~~~~~ Any ideas on how to go about attaching them since they're no longer stickers like they used to be? Apparently you can't put them inside in a window facing out per the 'outside' requirement of the law.  
    • cookie129
      so here’s the scoop , as most fishermen know most of the resorts up here started letting wheeler and sleds out on the lake last weekend. That does not mean you can go any where you want as the winds have shifted the ice a couple times and opened up a few cracks . Check with the resort you access and stay in the areas that have been checked out.
      The fishing has been pretty good.
      I have had a few projects that were put off untell I got laid off from the golf course and mother nature again made my projects more challenging. I’m making progress slow and steady and maybe this time I have learned my lesson not to put these off when its 70 and sunny. Chasing breaking 80 at the golf course has got me processed.
      From the looks of it there a good chance we will have all our sleepers on the lake by the 7th of dec.
      My plans are again to go out of Hillmens resort and help Buddy hillmen with his road. He has built a 2 story house that may or may not be on the lake as its huge, I think it can sleep 8 to 10. Its crazy big 14 by 28.
    • OhioVike
      I appreciate the feedback. We love being out on the ice, so we'll keep plugging away.  Good luck to all this winter and be safe out there!
    • workin4bait
      I seen in the  paper it will be at Leech lake again this year.
    • KidMoe
      I was worried about the wire size too. Thanks ProV. I guess I can’t avoid it.