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LwnmwnMan2

Another ? regarding getting front of boat down

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LwnmwnMan2    2
LwnmwnMan2

I was looking at my boat again tonight and was wondering. Would it make the boat plane out better if I raised or lowered the motor??

Not just trimmed it, but literally unbolted it from the back of the boat and moved it up or down a hole??

I noticed I still have one more hole in the top of the mounting plate, which would in turn drop the motor into the water more.

Would that make a difference??

Thanks.

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PerchJerker    0
PerchJerker

General rule of thumb is that most boats will run better with the motor raised up higher vs. dropped down lower -- better holeshot, faster speed. If you raise the motor you need to make sure you're getting water in the motor to keep it cool, the cavitation plate should be even with or slightly above the bottom of the hull, the nose cone of the gear case should be below the hull.

I think your biggest problem may be that you are under-powered, as was mentioned in your other thread. You said you have a 115, what is your boat rated for at max horsepower?

I think you should test the boat with as light a load as possible - you by yourself, remove as much gear as you can, run with 1/4 tank of gas or less. See if your boat performs better like that - then you will know if the load your are carrying is causing your problem.

If you are running a stock aluminum prop it is possible that a 4 or 5 blade prop will give you better stern lift, thereby bringing the bow down. But if you are underpowered this won't do much to help your problem.

IF ........ it is the case that your boat is underpowered and you just bought it, raise holy he** with your dealer and try to get a deal on a bigger motor (if it's something you can afford). If this is an option for you, don't wait. Tell them you want full retail value for your 115 against a trade.

Don't know if any of this helps, but good luck anyway. And if you don't mind, post the specs for your boat - length, width, hull weight, and max horsepower rating.

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Surface Tension    263
Surface Tension

If your cavitation plate is below the hull then raising the motor will most likely improve hole shot and top end.

Trimming in should lower the bow even with an outboard not at a boats max hp rating, thats if the load isn't loaded in the stern.

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LwnmwnMan2    2
LwnmwnMan2

Quote:

General rule of thumb is that most boats will run better with the motor raised up higher vs. dropped down lower -- better holeshot, faster speed. If you raise the motor you need to make sure you're getting water in the motor to keep it cool, the cavitation plate should be even with or slightly above the bottom of the hull, the nose cone of the gear case should be below the hull.

I think your biggest problem may be that you are under-powered, as was mentioned in your other thread. You said you have a 115, what is your boat rated for at max horsepower?

I think you should test the boat with as light a load as possible - you by yourself, remove as much gear as you can, run with 1/4 tank of gas or less. See if your boat performs better like that - then you will know if the load your are carrying is causing your problem.

If you are running a stock aluminum prop it is possible that a 4 or 5 blade prop will give you better stern lift, thereby bringing the bow down. But if you are underpowered this won't do much to help your problem.

IF ........ it is the case that your boat is underpowered and you just bought it, raise holy he** with your dealer and try to get a deal on a bigger motor (if it's something you can afford). If this is an option for you, don't wait. Tell them you want full retail value for your 115 against a trade.

Don't know if any of this helps, but good luck anyway. And if you don't mind, post the specs for your boat - length, width, hull weight, and max horsepower rating.


Specifications -

18'6" length

96" Beam

Approx 1500 lbs

Max hp rating of 175.

I know the 2006 models come with a 135 hp standard.

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PerchJerker    0
PerchJerker

OK, now I know you're underpowered. That is a lot of boat you're trying to push with that motor.

I hate to say it but my opinion is that you need 150 HP to solve your problem, just raising/lowering the motor and repropping the boat is not going to solve your problem. If you keep the motor you have it would be worth it to try any performance tweaks you can get, but they are not going to be a cure-all.

If this is an option for you I would try to get your dealer to take back the 115 and give you full credit towards a 150 HP. Whether they will admit it or not, they KNOW that a 115 is too small for that boat, but they put it on there to keep the pricing attractive.

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Surface Tension    263
Surface Tension

I'd say your under powered as well. I 135hp would be minimal and a 150 like PJ stated would be recommended.

Trying to get any dealer to take in your motor at full price is I guess worth a try but I wouldn't get my hopes up.

My above suggestions of lifting the motor or better yet a jack plate will improve the boats performance.

Something else I'd be looking into are trim tabs. Either in a automatic set(cost is under $150), or electric/hydraulic fully operational hydraulic trim tabs that will run you around $500.

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Valv    0
Valv

I think you are underpowered too, but still the boat should ride straight when on plane.

I have a beaten up Crestliner 1750 FishHawk with an old 100hp Evinride (which nowadays is a 85hp) and still can get on plane and ride boat fine.

Take a look at your motor, where the power tilt & trim rests, does it have a rod going across width of motor ?

Few years back they had this rod to set lowest trim position you can go, they were removable and you could choose another hole to lower or raise motor.

I don't think new motors have it, but just in case you might want to take a look....

I hope you understand what I'm talking about.

Also be sure your motor is all the way down when trimmed, don't look at gauge, just look at motor, be sure it's all the way down.

If you look at it on the trailer it should have a 90 degrees angle with boat (boat level horizontally, motor 90deg vertically).

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LwnmwnMan2    2
LwnmwnMan2

I appreciate your help guys.

The cavitation plate is pretty much level with the top edge of the hull.

I'll run to the dealer the first of next week and see what they say.

Looking on the internet it's about $2-3,000 to jump to a 150 hp motor, retail to retail price, so I guess I have to figure out what it's worth to me.

I suppose some of the issue could be the shape of the hull as well, on how it rides on the water.

I know when we're cruising on the lake, all the water is being thrown off well behind the consoles, there's really no way we'd ever get wet from rougher water.

We're heading out to Goose Lake tomorrow night to go fishing.

Maybe I'll have my dad run the boat while I'm on shore so I can see how the thing sets in the water at full throttle as well, get some pictures of it.

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TravisC    0
TravisC

try putting a fin on the motor they help out boats that are under powered get up on plane faster.

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Valv    0
Valv

Also try to change prop with one with smaller pitch, it might help too.

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LwnmwnMan2    2
LwnmwnMan2

Finally talked with the dealer. Said get more weight up to the front of the boat, ie anchors, people, whatever.

They're going to give me a new pedastal for the seat as well to try, something that's 6-7" higher.

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