Lifetime minimum maintenance frame

[eagle_3464]

This frame will be headed off for galvanizing tomorrow. The liquid dip will be 100% inside and out to eliminate the rust corrosion seen on many frames. In 20 years we'll still have a strong structural frame under the house.

Not yet installed, there will be a spring bump stop between the spring and tube. The pivot system contains no grease fittings requiring maintenance. Instead, the pivots utilize a material that has been tried and proven without failure on salt water ocean beaches around the world.

The hitch, like many others, allows for remaining hooked while you drop the frame. The hitch pivot and retainer have thru bushings and not just holes drilled in the tube that over time will elongate.

Mounting channels are welded to the frame to accept several designs for raising and lowering the house. I have chosen to go with sidewind removeable jacks to avoid bloody knuckles caused by non-braking winches used on many frame. Also to avoid the problematic winch cable issues. The jacks can be removed with a single pin and stored inside for road travel and to deter theft. If at some point winches are desired simply remove the bolted upright and bolt up a new one designed for either single pull or a true double pull.

Unlike most frames, I have chosen to run the center tube full length to achieve much more structural support behind the wheels where most of the load is transferred when hitting severe bumps. It's good to have a solid foundation to build on.

[BehindtheHead]

What will that cost?

[eagle_3464]

The galvanizing will run me about $200 and the remainder of materials about $900 to $1000. Plus lots of hours in building. If you figure your time it's probably better to buy a frame but this way I get it the way I want it.

[hawkeye43]

That's a very understandable reason.

[BehindtheHead]

thats cheap to have it dipped in my opinion.

[eagle_3464]

I am tagging it along with a load of parts from work so that helps. Even for us they have a $300 minimum charge if you don't have enough weight to equal that or greater. You pay based on finished weight and can figure your frame will gain on average of 6% if it is vented properly to reduce excess pooling of the liquid. If I ever build again I have a formed profile designed for the cross-members that equals the strength of the tubing. This will eliminate the majority of the venting holes.

[eagle_3464]

Finally back from galvanizing and assembled. Turned out very nice and glad I went that route. Now to begin the house construction.

[JSK76]

Wow! That looks really nice!

[Hawg]

You'll probably be ok but that doesn't look like much clearance to bring your side jacks down when you're on the ice or did you cut it that close to maximize lift? I guess you'll be ok as long as you have a chizel along. That is a super nice finish, $200 sounds like a steal. Is that the know somebody price or the regular charge? I would never mess with painting or any finish on another frame for that price. Are there any negatives to a galvanised/dipped frame?

[eagle_3464]

I did place the jacks to maximize lift but there is still 2" clearance from the bottom of the jack pad to the bottom of the frame. So even without blocking the frame I can place a 2 x 4 under the pads and still get the frame down to the ice.

Final cost on the galvanizing was $206 for everything you see galvanized. This is based on the rate we are charged where I work so I don't know if that rate would be the same for everyone.

If I ever build another, it will deffinately get this treatment. The only negative I can see is the extra work in placing drain and vent holes for coating inside the tubes. An aluminum frame will be somewhat lighter but due to the tempering required to equal similar yield strength properties as steel they tend to develope stress cracks quite easily, especially in sub-zero temps.

[jerkbait]

Eagle, can you name the company that did the galvanizing for you? I would like to check on prices for a project of mine. Thanks

[eagle_3464]

jb, we use AZZ in Winsted. I know they have a $300 minimum and our rate I believe is based on a minimum of 2000#. IMO, even at $300 it is money well spent for a finish that will not rust from the road salt, even from the inside out like many frame do.

[eagle_3464]

After a busy spring we are finally making some progress. So far everything is fitting up as planned. Roof sheeting is on and all edges rounded and sanded smooth. Ready to apply the rubber roof next.

Advantech flooring installed.

Wall framing erected.

Roof framing installed.

Wall sheeting .040 aluminum fitted and secured with colored stainless screws. Protective film still on until windows and door cut.

Windows and door installed.

Windows and door installed.

[B-man715]

Very nice!

Is there any prep work with the metal needed or does the hot dip take care of any oils?

[SnowGuy73]

Looks great, I love the siding color!

[eagle_3464]

B-man, the only prep is the addition of proper venting and drain holes in the frame structure. They dip the frame in a solution that etches the steel to remove oils and scale before dipping in the molten zinc.

[eagle_3464]

Rubber roof is on and termination strip applied. The strip formed around the corners much better than I thought it would.

[eagle_3464]

I finally have the exterior trimmed out with aluminum treadbrite. Next on the list is spray foam insulation.

[perchking]

very nice job it should serve you well for many years.

[eagle_3464]

Thanks pk, looking forward to many years on the ice with this one. My wife will enjoy this much more than the portable. We can play cards or whatever while waiting for the fish to bite, not so easy to do in a portable.

[perchking]

You got that right, my wife doesn't fish but my 3 kids love to go. They are 7, 5, and 3 and the porty just doesn't cut it. I have a cottage on a lake in N Wi, I have been looking for a decent skid house for over a year now and have yet to find one. Lots of junk for sale, but I will find one sooner or later.

[eagle_3464]

"Lots of junk for sale"

That's exactly why I decided to build my own. This way I get it the way I want it and with quality workmanship. I looked for about two years and if it was worth having, it was also $3000 or more than what I will have into mine. Good luck with your search.

[westb]

B-man, the only prep is the addition of proper venting and drain holes in the frame structure. They dip the frame in a solution that etches the steel to remove oils and scale before dipping in the molten zinc.

I'm gonna be doing a build next year and I've been taking notes on all the great info that has been shared in various threads. The question I have is about drain holes in the frame. How many do you put in and what size? Thanks in advance.

[eagle_3464]

westb, shoot me your email address and I will send you a document that details the venting requirements. There are two different methods (internal and external venting) that will work. I used external because I felt it easier to keep internal pooling to a minimum, thereby reducing weight gain. Proper venting is critical to reduce the risk of tube deformation or worse, explosion.

[eagle_3464]

The long awaited spray foam is finally completed and cleaned to the studs. If you scored each side of the stud the foam cleaned off quite easily.

Next step will be the wiring. I hope I don't forget something important.

[eagle_3464]

Progress has been slow, working on the house when I can between other projects and commitments. After roughly 400ft of CL3 cable, 50ft of coax, and 50ft of romex I have finally completed the wiring and hoping I didn't forget anything important.

[Hawg]

Did you remember marker lights for the side of the house when travelling? That's an easy one to forget.

[eagle_3464]

Hawg, I've got those covered. All are red LED's (amber up front) with clear lens and chrome bezels. I think they look much better with the aluminum treadbrite than the red colors lenses.

[Dozer]

I put those same lights except colored lenses on mine last year. 5 of the 10 red ones burned out, no problem with any amber ones though.

[eagle_3464]

A good part of the interior finishing is completed. Now on to the front "V" framing for the oven and then the FRP can go in the "V" before the countertop is installed. Storage bunks are framed and ready to install after the "V" is finished. It's getting closer so we should be right on time with the ice.