Guests - If You want access to member only forums on FM. You will gain access only when you Sign-in or Sign-Up on Fishing Minnesota.

It's easy - LOOK UPPER right menu.

Sign in to follow this  
Followers 0
beer batter

fish house door condensation

12 posts in this topic

My fish house has a typical camper/rv door, pretty common amongst fish houses. Had problems in the past with ice build up where condensation freezes and causes problems opening and closing the door. Really had problems this past weekend with the 30 below temps.

I have a vented furnace so that's not the problem with the excess condensation. I'm pretty sure it's just the door doesn't make a great seal. The cold from outside condenses to water where it meets the warmth of the inside and freezes.

Any thoughts how to create a better seal on these doors to reduce the condensation?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Maybe someone else has more experience with this but maybe a computer fan blowing air across the door might keep it from freezing up.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

A majority of the freezing condensation is occuring on the outside of the door on the bottom, so a fan wouldn't even reach there. I do have a forced air furnace and computer fans mounted on the ceiling, so there is air flow moving around the inside of house already.

Probably a project for the summer to find some door molding somewhere to fit a camper style door. Just wondering if others have had similar issues and what's been done to fix it.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

About the best thing you can do is get it sealed up better. Sounds like you have the air movement and good furnace already.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

check the latch and make sure its adjusted as tight as possible.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have the same issue with a aluminum framed rv door, but my heater is a blue flame. The window in the door is aluminum as well and it shows frozen run off outside from the sweating it does just as the door and the knob/lock freezes.

I found that ice builds up in the seal area all around the door and its frame. My door lock has been a daily thaw with a light duty torch, or a heavily heated up key.

I ended up cutting out a large square piece of plastic from a roll @ work about 6" larger then my doors dimensions.

It keeps the door from freezing to the frame, or allowing the build up in the seal areas when your gone.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Your vented heater is helping draw in extra moisture from the outside, hence even more condensation.

The quick solution to a frozen lock -- heat the key with a lighter or matches - use a pair of pliars to hold the key to keep from burning your fingers.

A solution that no one else has mentioned - use a good water-disbursant spray on the gasket and jamb. A silicon spray will probably work, WD-40 will work, but when the carrier evaporates it attracts dust and dirt.

The best: AMSOIL has a superior product: AMP Metal Protector. It is a thin film spray lubricant, penatrant, water disbursant that when the carrier evaporates leaves a slick finish that does not attract dirt and dust. Excellent for all types of lockes - far superior to graphite because it is clean and your pockets stay clean.

NOTE: almost all spray applied products do not spray well when very cold and sometimes will gel when sprayed -- which will make it difficult to use in a fish-house.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I used to have problems with the knob/lock but now I simply squirt some lock de-icer all around the area when I first arrive and that seems to provide enough of a temporary solution to where it's not an issue for me any more.

I'll just have to check around for door molding that will fit the aluminum RV door and try getting a tighter fit to reduce the condensation.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I had no luck last week with any type of deicer or lock lube product. Thus the reason I use the torch or heated key.

I actually got frozen "inside" my shack last week and had to dismantle the door knob to get out. (lol)

Lubed everything all up and it still did no good.

I was told to put a heavy balloon over the knob inside and out when going for the day. Suppose to keep the internals dry from moisture and freezing and operational.

Simple weather stripping I'm sure will help the door issue. I might wait till it hits like 30 degrees and warm up the frame with the torch and attach some.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Tennis balls work to keep the elements out

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

 Originally Posted By: ice_it_06
I actually got frozen "inside" my shack last week and had to dismantle the door knob to get out. (lol)

That's funny, it's happened to me too. Bad thing is that it seems when it happens it's the coldest temperatures of the year. My door was frozen all along the bottom and from the door knob down to the bottom along the side of the door that opens. Had to kick the door open to break the ice that had frozen the door shut solid. Wasn't funny at the time because I was worried about breaking the door then the chit would really hit the fan with sub zero temps going on at the time.

Let me know if you come up with anything. I'll probably leave it as it for the rest of this season, then looking into bostering up the weather stripping during the off-season.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

This is going to be my project on friday.

I don't think there is any insulation whatsoever in these doors.

So, what my dad did was glue on a 1/2" sheet of blue styrofoam to the inside of the door, and he said it solved the problem.

I plan to take it to the next level and use the reflextix insulation, and secure it with the chrome tape. This will give a little higher R value, and will look a little classier \:\) I hope.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.
Sign in to follow this  
Followers 0



  • Posts

    • skibass
      We talked to a guy who did very well in 16 FOW by Frontier on Monday. Also heard from a group who did well near Birchdale (not sure on depth).  Our best luck was in 21-25 FOW
    • megofishing
      I am planning on kayaking and fishing the Cannon River this season--between Cannon Falls and Hwy 61. I just want to know if the current is generally swift or lazy, i.e., can I paddle BACK to my entrance spot or do you  need to drift downstream and do the two vehicle thing. I understand it may depend on how low or high the river is at any given time, but in general, when things are 'normal', can you paddle back with little difficulty?
    • maxpower117
      I'll keep it short and simple. The causes of boom and bust on Mille Lacs.    1. Improperly managed slot limits. Too many large fish are allowed in the lake.  2. Netting during spawn. Poor spawning success.    The recent years of high catch rates rates indicate a good 2013 year class but most importantly it is a red flashing light for anyone paying attention. High catch rates are a result of good population AND low or decreasing forage. I put AND in caps because fish won't bite like they have  when they're not hungry.    Cut down that year class class before it's too late. I give it 2 more summers before another crash is inevitable.    Round and round we go, where it stops, nobody knows. 
    • megofishing
      After using most of the brands you've mentioned, I absolutely love Lunkerhunt frogs...real lifelike, and don't seem to fill up with water as much as the others. They also hold up really well--caught some pike and bowfin without them getting destroyed. I have been using the "Croaker" color exclusively, but definitely picking up some other patterns. They also make a popper frog which is great if you want to make a little more noise.
    • megofishing
      I agree with AlwaysFishing--you can come down in line weight for braid if you're just straight up bass fishing. I personally like 30lb if there are a lot of toothy critters around. I use 50-60lb when going after pike and muskie. Have you ever tried fireline for your spinning rod? When jigging, wacky worming, etc., I use 8-12lb fireline exclusively--you can feel EVERYTHING and no stretch is an added bonus.