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sparkydm

wheel house siding

9 posts in this topic

to you guys with wheel houses: what is the best type of siding to use? thinking of building one next year. any info or tips on all aspects of this project would be helpful. thanks in advance for your help.

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vinyl. It's the cheapest and lightest.

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I'll second the vinyl. I was worried about it breaking in the cold weather but so far it has held up very well. Plus, it's a lot easier to work with than steel IMO.

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I hate to disagree but I went with aluminum because of a friend who had vinyl. It(vinyl) dents pretty easy.

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Quote:

I hate to disagree but I went with aluminum because of a friend who had vinyl. It(vinyl) dents pretty easy.


I've got 15 years of installing siding and I've never seen vinyl dent confused.gif break or get a hole punched in it but never dent.

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I have one with vinyl and built one with steel, and my new one has the thin metal. All are great, the vinyl or thin steel sheets are the way to go. My vinyl is 10 years old this year and is just fine. No dents or holes, except from the vandals a few years back. It is your choice and depends on the money you have to spend. Go to a local lumber yard and check to see if they have any discontinued siding that you can take off their hands for cheap. Sometimes you can even get damaged boxes for a good price. Good luck! cool.gif

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thanks for the info! by the way, how's the ice looking up that way?

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drove by 3 small lakes and they were almost frozen over this afternoon.

Won't be long now, time to get the stuff out this weekend so I am ready!

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Sparky,

Maintenance free is a great thing for the siding window's door's ect.... But, they start from the ground up I built one 5 years ago. Frame and all make sure you go get some spindles/axels and bearings made for high speeds if you plan on pulling it around much. 3500 lb axels would be a good choice. don't go cheap on your springs they take alot of abuse and will be one of the first things to fail. A heavy duty winches for lifting is a must also. break the toung and put a winch there also so you don't always have to un hook it from your truck. Done right and with the help of a good welder you can save a few $ on the frame. don't cut corners on angle iorn or tube steel thick wall tube steel 1/4" angle iorn. Figure out a way to tie your exterior walls together with your frame they twist alot going threw the conditions pulling them around on the lake. Beef up the pivot points where your wheel assembly attaches to your frame that's a week point and will tend to bend there first. Light weight studs 2x2 or 1 5/8" heavy guage metal studs welded. Wire it for both 110 and 12 volt before insulating and paneling.Don't buy a cheap heater direct vent with a thermostat is a good choice. Hole covers are a nice choice also. carpet dries quickly if it's the right stuff. Build it to last you'll still save a couple thousand on buying one already built and it will last you for years. Plus it's good thearpy building things. Start planning and stock piling now for the 2008/2009 ice season.

Good Luck and have fun.

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  • Posts

    • jb426
      Agreed, 25 does seem big for a 12' boat
    • Sculpin
      Make sure you take a couple minutes and look for the rating plate in that boat, if it exists it should be back on or near the transom somewhere. I'd be very careful about hanging a 25 HP motor on a 12 foot boat, as it may not be rated for 25 HP. Some 12's are different than others, more depth, more beam, etc. so the motor ratings can vary. Proceed with caution.
    • Tom Sawyer
      Outstanding Brookie
    • jb426
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    • busse3775
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    • Dune27
    • BartmanMN
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    • Surface Tension
      Ha, fixed.
    • HugeHogChaser
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