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Northlander

Help on 24 volt battery connecting

19 posts in this topic

Ok guys I think I know what Im doing but I thought I better check here. I want to hook my 2 deep cycles for my bowmount to 24 volt. I was running 12 volt.

Is it positive from bowmount trolling motor to positive on battery #1 and negative to negative on battery #2 and then a jumper from negative on #1 to positive on #2?

I dont want to melt anything down. I do have a inline breaker on my positive as well.

Anyone have a diagram? Thanks Guys/gals.

Oh I already have 8amp wirefrom bowmount to batteries.

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Northlander:

I have seen NEG to Battery #1 and POS to Battery #2 and then the jumper on the other (2) posts.

Not sure if it makes a difference connecting POS to # 1 or not.

Someone will chime in I'm sure.

** bought a skidder from your buddy Jay up there a couple weeks ago wink.gif

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Ice it 06 e-mail me about that skidder.

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Northlander email Marine_Man and explain your set up and he will get you going the right direction. Sometime your don't have to cross your battery connections if you have the right kind of trolling motor plug in. You can just do your cross over at the plug end.

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Hook the positive of one battery to the negative of the other. This leaves an unused positive and negative terminal. Hook the positive that is left with no connection to the positive lead of your trolling motor. Hook the negative that has no connection to the negative lead of the trolling motor.

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Looks good. The voltages in batteries hooked up in series add up, therefore giving you 24V.

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12Vfrom24Vsystem-2.jpg

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Ok guys I have that all set.

Next question is how should I do the power cord? Should I go straight to the battery with a fuse or run it under the dash with the other 2 graphs I have on the councel?

If I go straight to one of the deep cycles like in diagram will I get interference?

This boat was profesionally rigged when I got it used and there are wires like crazy under the councel. Im not very electrical as you can tel. grin.gif

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We go directly back to the starting battery with our locators, with an inline fuse. You will/most likely get some interference if you go to one of the 24v batts. Everytime we hit the co-pilot our lowrance would draw a line when we had it hooked up like that. Now it is perfectly clear.

Also, make sure the fuse (we use circuit breaker) in the positive is near the battery on the positive, and rated correctly.

Good luck,

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Do you guys hardwire your trolling motors to the batteries, or do you have a plug in some where in between? I thought i read somewhere that one way is better than the other, but don't remember which.

Sorry if this is hijacking your thread, but it is kind of related.

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Ya I went back to the main starting battery where the rest of the graphs were hooked up. Looks ok. I guess next spring will tel. I wont have it out til then.

Anyone ever run a high speed ducer instead of the puck style? I did it and I hope it works well. Guys at Marine General told me it will do the same thing and it has temp etc.

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UMD thats fine. We all can learn on this one.

Mine was wired from the starting battery right up to my front graph with a linline fuse/breaker at the battery.. I think it was 40 amp if I remember correctly. But now that I think of it the 40 amp was probably at my battery for the bowmount.

Marineman does this all sound cool to you?

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the reason i ask is because i got a new trolling motor from Valv this fall and am thinking about what i am going to need before i install it in the spring.

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UMD e-mail me and we can discuss it. Did you get that Motorguide he had?

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FWIW, we ran new 8 ga. wire to the bow and used a plug. I think you want a plug, so you can take it off if you want, and we also uplug when the charger is plugged in. I know you don't HAVE to , but it just gives me piece of mind.

We have Alumacraft, and had the 12/24v wiring, and just bypassed all that when we put a new trolling motor on. Left the old wiring in place. We have done this on two boats, and have much more success with fresh 8 ga. wire than the 12/24 thinner stuff.

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Ya I would for sure put a plug in. Its nice to be able to take off the bowmount for whatever reason. Service, theft worries etc.

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What kind of trolling motor did you get?

I just curious since Minnkota came out with some new motors like the Terrova and PowerDrive V2 to hear from anyone that has either of those or anyone that has the new Motorguide with the Lowrance transducer built in.

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In the past I used one side of the 24V system to power the sonar units at the box and console. I wired the stern sonar to the starting battery. Since I've upgraded my bow Mont trolling motor to a Power Driver (w) universal sonar and installed a Vector on the stern; and, upgraded my console sonar to a color 520C Lowrance, all three sonar’s were black with interference when ever I used a trolling motor. I asked the GENERAL what I could do about the interference and he told me that there were some capacitors and other electronic gizmos I could try, but suggested that I just rig a third battery to independently run the sonar’s. I did this and the problems were solved. For the 2008 season I'm going to install a gel wheelchair battery which will allow for more room in my rear battery compartment.

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I just went to a Powerdrive with auto pilot and I put on my own ducer. My old Universal sonar wasnt the greatest in my opinion so I hope this is better.

I went from a Minnkota powerdrive 12 volt 55# to a Powerdrive 24 volt 64# and put on my co-pilot. Got it all at a good price barely used.

Hopefully Im set now.

I know guys in league with the Terovas and they say its real nice and good on batteries. I havent seen anyone with the V2 yet.

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