Guests - If You want access to member only forums on FM. You will gain access only when you Sign-in or Sign-Up on Fishing Minnesota.

It's easy - LOOK UPPER right menu.

Sign in to follow this  
Followers 0
jigging-matt

Heated seats not working

10 posts in this topic

My wife has a 2000 Chrysler 300m and the heated seats quit working. I tried to check the fuses and cannot find the one for the seats. I am assuming it is tied into the power seats. Anyone have any ideas or things I could check to see if I can them to work. Thanks. cool.gif

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Have you checked all the fuse blocks and or checked the owners manual for fuse locations?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

It looks like the power for the seat and heater is all coming from a circuit breaker, so if the seat moves, that shouldnt be the issue. c.b. #2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If you have power to the switch and coming out of it, its more than likely a bad heating element. I've diagnosed several of these (mostly Durangos for some reason) and more times than not its the element. You can usually see where the problem is when you take it out because of the obvious burn marks. They're not that hard to change but they are a bit spendy.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Macgyver, would they both go out around the same time? And the drivers side one worked sporadically for a couple of days before it quit. Appreciate all of the feedback. By the way how much are the heating elements?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

It does look like a circuit breaker supplies power but there is also a fuse that powers up the switches. It is located in the fuse block on the drivers side of the dash. It should be a ten amp fuse and possibly #14.

If you really get ambitious you can start probing the module under the drivers seat. The red wire is the one supplying power from the circuit breaker. Red with dark green supplies power to the driver side heating element. Red with tan supplies power to the passenger element.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I checked the #14 fuse and it was fine. The passeenger side was working fine last night also. On the Drivers side switch when you go to turn it on the light will not come on. I switched the switch with the passenger side and got the same result, and then the switch worked on the passenger side. confused.gif

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Check the blue with white wire at the switch. This is the power supply wire from the fuse. Looks like you could measure continuity between the pins on the switch that correspond to the blue/white wire and the tan/drk green (Driver side) blue/white and tan/light green (passenger side) There should be different resistance values with the switch in high or low. Both switches should have identical or very similar values.

You could also measure continuity of the elements to see if those have an open circuit. Red w/drk green and ground (driver side) red w/tan and ground (passenger side). Again values should be simular.

If this all checks out than I would suggest heading to the local library (They should have access to alldata. You will be able to find step by step diagnostic info for this problem) or your favorite service facility.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Sorry I forgot to check back on this thread.

Quote:

would they both go out around the same time?


It would be a pretty big coincidence for them to go out at the same time but not impossible. It would lead me to believe it could be something other than the element, but the sporadic nature of it could be explained by the element making contact at the burn mark sometimes but not always.

I guess the easiest way to check them would be to unplug the connector at the bottom rear of the seat and check first for continuity. Also you could sit on it and move around a bit and see if it loses continuity when it has weight on it. Or you could power it up with a jumper to bypass the switch and module and see if it works that way.

Quote:

how much are the heating elements?


If my memory serves me correctly???? $125 range but don't quote me....

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for all of the help, did some checking and a wire got loose when I was checking stuff, so the passenger seat works fine. The drivers side is the heating element. Not sure if the wife wants to fix it or not. It is her car, she is about ready to trade it in.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.
Sign in to follow this  
Followers 0



  • Posts

    • Mike89
      2 people on the north end of Osakis now
    • fishersofmen
      Yeah next week looks good for getting out. Hopefully the snow totals stay on the low side but at least its gonna be the light powder variety.
    • Neighbor_guy
      3" on west hunter in Zimmerman 15yds from shore.  Lakes talking a lot today. Keep in mind the lake is only 8' deep   A dozen trucks/cars at Baxter last evening when I drove by  
    • CJH
      Thanks for the update.  Good news!!     Be safe everyone!
    • CJH
      Thanks guys.  So just to recap so far, Nils and KDrill require adapters, which add $30 or so, but you can use them w/out the drill plate if you want to.  How about Strikemasters do they need an adapter?     Also, just wondering if there is any legit reason to pay $100 more for the K Drill over the Nils?  Seems to me they are about the same weight (ballpark) and both cut pretty fast.     Thanks again for the info fellas!!