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Sutty

Pitman Arm 98 K-1500

17 posts in this topic

I am in the middle of replacing the pitman arm, Idler arm, and Idler assembly. Got the last two off and the sway bar. Having issues with the pitman arm. My first question is, is the nut thats holding it on a 34 mm? Biggest sears had was a 32 and that seems to just miss. Anyway even if I had the right sized wrench wondering if the steering box needs two come off?

Thanks

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I would try Napa for a large socket. Give them a call!

You should not have to remove steering gear assembly! I do believe you need a puller to remove Pitman arm from steering gear box stub shaft! You could possible rent one from a local parts store! I would get nut off and see if loose!

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You shouldn't have to pull off the steering box. I have always used a standard socket on these if I remember correctly. Sometimes the latest ans greatest impacts aren't enough to get them loose and a little heat will help. You will also need a pitman arm puller. Sometimes a little heat and a five pound hammer is needed to remove this also.

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Thanks guys, I already have a puller rented but on my first attempts it wasn't grabbing very good. (The kit came with 4 different sized pullers) But I was concentrating on the nut. from the angle I didn't think I'd get a ratchet or impact in there. Even without the sway bar I still have something in the way. I thought it was part of the frame.

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HMMMMMM!

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what i do at the shop is take the three bolts out of the gaer box push up the gear box, then take i use a 1 5/16 socket make sure you push up the rubber seal around the shaft then take off nut then put puller on and take the arm off.

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You can rent (free) the big sockets from Autozone/Checker.

Just used one for a wheel hub 34mm

You can get a specialized pittman arm puller as well.

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How did you determine that the Pitman/idle arm assembly was bad? I replaced tires this summer on my truck and suburban and got the same diagnosis on both along with a list of other things that would have made lots of money for the tire tech.

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All Chevy K series and S-10 blazers go through these like popcorn at a movie. Idler arms more so than pitman arms. They have to be really bad before I recommend them or unless the customer wants the vehicle aligned. The tighter the front end the better the alignment will be!!

with the tires off the ground grab them at the 3 and 9 o'clock position and wiggle back and forth. The idler arms will typically move up and down and the pitman arms will typically have slop in the joint itself.

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I had two different shops tell me I needed them. Well I ended up taking the three bolts out of the steering box as mentioned above and than I was able to get it. took me two nights but I have it all done. (had some stuff get in the way like a holiday for a couple days). It was close though, was running up against Deer hunting. I replaced the tie rod ends as well while I was in there. I have a squeaky wheel now, I am hoping that goes away when it gets aligned today.

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I should add that the steering is wayyyy more responsive now!

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Quote:

I have a squeaky wheel now, I am hoping that goes away when it gets aligned today.


Time for ball joints? smirk.gif

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Maybe, hope not :-)

About the last old thing I have in there for steering though....

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You will find out when its align...

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Alignment shop called, said it test drove fine after adjustment. I am guessing the wheels were tweaked so hard the tires were chirping. Just a guess though...

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Did you take it to the Goodyear?

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No, they couldn't quite get me in in time. The only place that could get me in quick enough was Tires plus.

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