Guests - If You want access to member only forums on FM. You will gain access only when you Sign-in or Sign-Up on Fishing Minnesota.

It's easy - LOOK UPPER right menu.

Sign in to follow this  
Followers 0
Dahitman44

dog collar response?

22 posts in this topic

I have a Sport Dog 1800 and when Copper (1.5 years) is in hot pursuit of a duck or goose he will not respond to me shocking him. Is that just adreniline?

It works well when he is not after a bird -- But sometimes better than other times.

Thoughts?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

First off, could you elaborate the situation a little more. I guess I'm confused as to why you'd be shocking/stimulating him when he is "in hot persuit" of a duck or goose (I'm assuming the bird is down and the dog is going after it).

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Quote:

I have a Sport Dog 1800 and when Copper (1.5 years) is in hot pursuit of a duck or goose he will not respond to me shocking him. Is that just adreniline?

It works well when he is not after a bird -- But sometimes better than other times.

Thoughts?


I would be really careful using the E-collar when the dog is on a bird, because at some point the dog may associate the stimulation from the collar to the bird. If he is getting to far ahead while on birds use a check cord to keep him in your desired range.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I am assuming you mean a bird that is jumped that you can't get a shot at? Yes when they are in pursuit this can be an issue. When my golden flushes some hens or a rooster out of gun range she tries to run it down from time to time. I have her whistle trained to sit no matter what. Simply correction electronicaly because she chases a bird is hard like mentioned before. But if they are told to sit with a whistle. They are getting corrected because of the sit comand versus the bird. It does take a lot of work. But it is really simple obedience the basis of everything. Remember the e-collor is simply a extra long leash.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The way to incorporate the Whistle if you are not familar. I use a single Toot for sit. This note can also be held as a long note untill they do it. And then 2 to 3 toots for Come or Here. They way to do this is start when you are healing around the block or in the yard. When you stop say sit. When and if your dog is there. Then when you say Sit give a toot on the whistle. Same with the come or Here command. With a little repetition it will all come together. Now when they take off after that Duck, or Pheasant simply stop them with the whistle and if need be correct the sit command and not the Bird.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Wave --

Sorry about that. He thinks he is after a bird, but there is no bird to get -- just what we MISSED and what is alive in the water way out or some decoys.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

No -- he listens better in the field than jumping in the water after a duck that we MISSED.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Tighten the collar, turn up the juice, recharge the battery or get a new unit.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Quote:

Tighten the collar, turn up the juice, recharge the battery or get a new unit.


mad.gifmad.gifmad.gifmad.gifmad.gif Seriously???????????????? lay off the collar, its a training tool, not the only thing needed to train a dog.

Everytime the dog does something wrong you dont just start shocking it. In order for stimulation to work on the dog IT HAS TO KNOW WHAT IT SHOULD BE DOING FIRST! You sure can screw up a dog fast by being to heavy on the collar. I can't believe some of the advice given on here.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thank You , 2thepointsetters !!

Great Point ! I hope lots of people read that !

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I think the longer prongs will help. Copper just doesn't get it when he is all worked up and excited. That way I can use lower power.

thanks

hit

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Just curious....but why do you think the longer prong help? Is the dog not getting the corrections you are currently giving (i.e. did he make any noise.....twitch his head...etc when he was not responding?)? If the dog is not feeling the correction then you may be right....but if the prongs are touching the skin then what will long prongs do for you?

I mentioned some possible causes in another thread but it seems you don't want to believe it......

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hemi --

I had to put them on my underground dog fence because Copper just didn't notice it. Now he notices it and stays in the yard.

As far as the hunting collar -- he doesn't always seem to notice the zap. I think the longer prongs will help get it close to him so i can reduce to power as well. I DO NOT enjoy shocking him so the less power the better. At least for me that is the way I am going to do it.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ok...well, it's certainly worth a shot.

Please let us know if it does not work and he does not respond and hopefully we can help resolve it in another manner. I just want to help get to the bottom of it, and dogs that are not properly CC'd can show this same issue. I wont lie....I did not properly CC my dog (being a frist time trainer before I understood the value of a good traiing program). I have a dog with a lot of drive and did the same thing if he broke on just retrieving bumpers. I would yell "come" followed by collar correction and he would run right through it. The cause of this was both my OB (which should have been much better and I should have had the check cord on still) and my not CC'ing properly to condition him to respond properly to the pressure.

Good luck this weekend!!!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

As long as the prongs are in contact with the skin the dog will get the correction. Just switching to a longer prong does not allow you to use a lower correction level.

You will have to find the proper correction, for the dog in multiple situations. If Maggie (my 5.5 year old lab) is really worked up it will take more of a correction. With my old Innotec that went from 1 to 30, if Maggie and I were just training or out walking a corection of 3 was all that was needed. If she was hunting or really worked up I have had to go to 15 before she would respond.

Another thing to check is to make sure the collar is fully charged. It will take a higher correction setting, to get the same response if the battery is low. It did with the Innotec anyway.

I am still getting used to my new Dogtra.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I think that statement is right to. I have the same collar( sportdog 1800) and if it is not fully charged it takes a higher setting to get the same response.

Jp

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Mr. B --

Thanks for the info, but the longer prongs have made a difference -- huge difference in my underground fence -- I think it should help the hunting collar too --

I will post my findings.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Don't forget to keep the e-collar snug. Oftentimes people have it on too loosely.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I keep it snug ... like I can get a finger in between, but I hate to choke him anymore than that.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Here's a little secret I'm not even sure I should post here..... But here it goes put the collar around his waist so the prongs are on the bare skin of the belly...... I know this works really well on stuborn dogs. Please start on a very low level of stimulation.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Obviously you misunderstood the post.

1) Tightening the collar will get the prongs closer or into the skin. This would eliminate the need for longer prongs.

2) Maybe he has the setting to low where there isn't enough stimulation. Some dogs need every bit you can give, others like mine need a setting of 2.

3)Could it possibly be that the unit just isn't charged completely therefore the dog isn't getting the full amount of what the setting has to offer.

4) If all 3 of these are being done and he is still not getting the stimulation needed then I would look into a new unit.

There is nothing wrong with the advice given in this post just your misunderstanding of the post itself.

When using a collar what has to be determined is the level in which each dog will respond. I have witnessed the smallest dog (#2 on the 2006 derby list, LABS will understand that) run right thru the highest setting possible on a Dogtra 1800 and never flinch. Her desire to get to the mark was that unbelievably high.

I have witnessed on the other hand a 80lb Field Champion crumble to the ground on a 4 setting of that very same collar.

I do question in this situation though that it is not the dog. I believe the problem lies with the collar itself.

I believe Fit, Setting or Charge is where the problem lies.

GOOD LUCK in getting it figured out!!!!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Update --

May not be the dog, but it may be the collar. A buddy of mine is bought the SD-1200 and I used it on him and boy did he listen. The collar box was opened in all compartments and some the stuff was missing. I found that out when myt buddy opened his box.

I am going to exchange it today.

That really makes me mad -- I turned the power down to 5 of 8 and he still yellped.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.
Sign in to follow this  
Followers 0



  • Posts

    • Cret Jigs
      Thanks for sharing those pics ... really enjoyed that!!     Bob
    • eyeguy 54
      pretty neat that the train went over. 
    • Muskies
      Was out opening weekend walleye fishing. Caught walleyes in 10 -12 ft slow trolling minnows. Looked like the spawn was over and this coming weekend should be much better. Water was 55 degrees in the area I was in and didn't  get any other species.
    • Muskies
      Good evening hooked up as a non resident you are allowed one walleye between the sizes mentioned per day no matter what license you posses. As others have stated, the smallness should be off their beds and the walleyes will be transitioning to the deep water reefs. Wind blown points or current are always good places to start.
    • Wheres_Walter
      I'm not a big bass chaser, but last year I started tossing senkos rigged wacky around rock piles and docks and did pretty well on Smallies.  Green Pumpkin color seemed to work the best.    Stay away from white bouys, they mark hazards..... Unless you are creeping up on them with your trolling motor to pitch senkos on top of the rock pile.  I'll be on Trout Lake June 7-10 so if you want to text me when you get up to Vermilion I can give you a report on how it went for us.   Lots of resorts on Vermilion rent 25 HP fishing boats.     matt 612-868-1282
    • JBMasterAngler
      Boat traffic isn't all that bad, there's a million places to escape it on that lake anyway. Bugs are usually pretty bad that time of year, and we've had a pretty wet spring so far also. But they're not an issue out on the water. You can launch at a different access each day, and it'll be like being on a completely different lake.
    • JeremyCampbell
      Thats a great view
    • Wanderer
      This time of year inside weedlines with sand have been good historically.  Find some cabbage and you should be golden.   Those walleyes could show up here and there on cranks in that 10 foot range too.
    • Cliff Wagenbach
      I do not fish bass very often but have had good luck using straight braided line for bass and walleye. Very few bugs out on the water! Shore bugs usually only out in the late evenings. Very few jet skis and water skiers on most of Vermilion most of the time. Weekend Holidays can see a lot of traffic. Some one else will surely answer your bass bait questions ! Tons of rusty crayfish in the East end that the bass love! Cliff
    • Mr. Basskisser
      Hey guys. My wife and I are coming up June 10th for a week of bass and pike fishing. Staying in Niles Bay area. Had a few more questions, hoping for some insight from some locals/regulars.  I was wondering ab ou how bad the bugs usually are in mid June, mosquitos,  biting flies and no see ums. Hoping when are are out in the boat fishing they will pretty much leave us alone.         I mentioned going to Vermilion on a thread on our local Ohio fishing forum. A few guys commented that it was a very busy lake with lots of jet ski and tubers. I was thinking if I wanted a more remote feel for a day maybe renting a boat and taking the portage to Trout Lake. I know our 40 hp is too big. I was also thinking of trying the river below the dam launching on 8 mile creek. Saw that on an episode of Ultimate Fishing Adventures. I was wondering if that area is limited to 25 hp motors. What would be the pros and cons of each spot?     I know V is tannic stained. We use pretty much braid on all our poles. Do you braid users feel you need a flouro leader when  bass fishing. Here in Ohio our water is rarely clear enough to worry about that.   One last thing what are the go to colors for tubes and senkos for bass?        Thanks for any help info you can give.                    Mr. Basskisser