Guests - If You want access to member only forums on FM. You will gain access only when you Sign-in or Sign-Up on Fishing Minnesota.

It's easy - LOOK UPPER right menu.

  • Announcements

    • Rick

      Members Only Fluid Forum View   08/08/2017

      Fluid forum view allows members only to get right to the meat of this community; the topics. You can toggle between your preferred forum view just below to the left on the main forum entrance. You will see three icons. Try them out and see what you prefer.   Fluid view allows you, if you are a signed up member, to see the newest topic posts in either all forums (select none or all) or in just your favorite forums (select the ones you want to see when you come to Fishing Minnesota). It keeps and in real time with respect to Topic posts and lets YOU SELECT YOUR FAVORITE FORUMS. It can make things fun and easy. This is especially true for less experienced visitors raised on social media. If you, as a members want more specific topics, you can even select a single forum to view. Let us take a look at fluid view in action. We will then break it down and explain how it works in more detail.   The video shows the topic list and the forum filter box. As you can see, it is easy to change the topic list by changing the selected forums. This view replaces the traditional list of categories and forums.   Of course, members only can change the view to better suit your way of browsing.   You will notice a “grid” option. We have moved the grid forum theme setting into the main forum settings. This makes it an option for members only to choose. This screenshot also shows the removal of the forum breadcrumb in fluid view mode. Fluid view remembers your last forum selection so you don’t lose your place when you go back to the listing. The benefit of this feature is easy to see. It removes a potential barrier of entry for members only. It puts the spotlight on topics themselves, and not the hierarchical forum structure. You as a member will enjoy viewing many forums at once and switching between them without leaving the page. We hope that fluid view, the new functionality is an asset that you enjoy .
Sign in to follow this  
spivak

sharpening broadhead inserts

Recommended Posts

spivak

I shoot Thunderhead 100s and was wondering about resharpening the inserts. I've noticed that even the arrows in my bow quiver seem to lose their sticky sharp edge after a while. What could a person use to keep the inserts touched up? I've always replaced them after a shot but could even the ones which have passed through a deer and hit the ground be salvaged? I realize this seems a little petty but these 5 deer limits and the arrowheads add up.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
harvey lee

I have been shooting the same Muzzy broadheads for years. I know some have shot numerous deer. I use a wet stone and re sharpen and they still seem to pass through a deer just fine.

About the only time I will throw away a broadhead is if it hits a tree trunk and gets bent.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
sparcebag

I hone mine every year,A hard stone works fine unless there's dings then I start with a wet fine grade stone.If ya really want a edge do a final hone on steel,glass,or something HARD and flat.Kinda like a meat cutter using a steel.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
delmuts

i still used those little "V" style hand held ones.( they are getting harder to find!) i buy a new one every year, as they can get a groove in the V and not do a good job. otherwise a wet stone. del

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
DonBo

Change them! Inserts are not that expensive and there is no way you can get them as sharp as new. NO WAY

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
harvey lee

Mine might not be as sharp as new but they will still clear a deer without a problem. Yes, it takes a few moments, to sharpen to the best you can get them but they will do just fine.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
delmuts

agreed !! you can get them scary sharp if you work at it!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
DonBo

Field tips can "clear a deer" also. That doesn't mean they are doing enough damage to harvest that animal as cleanly as possible. True, some people may be able to put a pretty good edge on replaceable blades, if you are one of those, I appologize. Most people will not take the time to do a good enough job, and I still think it is a bad idea to let them think they can.

As hunters, our first responsibility to that animal is to take him as cleanly and humanely as possible. As a bowhunter, the best way to do that is to use a razor sharp broadhead and put it in the vitals.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
harvey lee

As I stated in one post above, one needs to take thier time to get a good edge on it.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
BLACKJACK

I also shoot the Thunderheads and my rule is that once they hit the ground after a shot, I replace the blades. But I see no problem with resharpening them, if you have the patience and know how to do it.

Its kind of like kitchen knives, some guys know how to use a stone and get them razor sharp but I used to have the dullest knives around - until I got my electric Chefs Choice sharpener. Now in five minutes I can do every kitchen knife. They may not be razor sharp but they'll cut a tomatoe - thats all I need.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
iffwalleyes

That is the key if you know how to sharpen them they will be fine. If you don't feel comfortable sharpening then replace them. Seems simple enough to me. They are metal and metal can be sharpened. That would be about like throwing away a fillet knife though because it dulled.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
BLACKJACK

When they come out with a electronic shapener that will do broadheads, I will get it and use it. Until then I will continue to just throw away and replace the one that hit the ground. They're CHEAP, enough for six broadheads cost less than $15. I don't shoot or miss that many deer a year, a pack of replacement blades will last me a couple of years.

I have better things to do with mine time than shapening my broadheads by hand. If you can do it, AND DO IT WELL, more power to you. Sharp broadheads are the key.

Comparing broadheads to fillet knives is like comparing apples to oranges. Again, I have better things to do with my time/ Replacement blades are cheap, yet they're so important to your success.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Nightcrawler

Amen to new blades, they are not spring steel any more for inserts, but I did thy sharpening them once.... tongue.gif

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
chucker34

Sharp blades are key. Though I also believe it can be overdone. It is my belief that most blades come plenty sharp enough for the factory to kill a deer. I believe the editor of Peterson's Bowhunter said it best a year or two ago when talking about all of the hype that comes with bowhunting products when he said an arrow tipped with a tablespoon would be lethal given a well-placed shot. grin.gif

Now send one into the dirt or use it for target practice, then I believe it should remain a target broadhead. Regardless of sharpening it afterward.

In fact, unless you truly know what you're doing, I would be concerned about the sharpness factor afterward. New and out of the box, good to go in my books. Hit the dirt or target and its a nice practice tip.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
sparcebag

I believe thats right!Shot placement!I've often wondered when or if there are any serrated inserts out there?More HYPE smile.gif

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Nightcrawler

RIGHT <IN THE DIRT FOR THE DIRT>

Remember ,the shank on the broad will bend so remember to spin once on shaft. not always a bent arrow,try another broad head.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Cooter

I'm assuming you're talking about the tip of the broadhead? I shoot TH100s and unless the tip/ferrule is bent or deformed I just replace blades and hunt. The tips aren't necessarily 'sharp' to begin with - the very end point is but the sides aren't.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Nightcrawler

I shoot TS125"s ,now the 100"s. I am talking about the threaded end shaft, not the tip.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Cooter

I'm confused now - we talking the insert itself or what?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
harvey lee

Yes, the insert or actual cutting blade was the original topic. The last few posts just changed to the threaded ends that screws into the arrow shaft.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Nightcrawler

Sorry I changed the original topic. broads do have to fly true.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.
Sign in to follow this