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spivak

sharpening broadhead inserts

21 posts in this topic

I shoot Thunderhead 100s and was wondering about resharpening the inserts. I've noticed that even the arrows in my bow quiver seem to lose their sticky sharp edge after a while. What could a person use to keep the inserts touched up? I've always replaced them after a shot but could even the ones which have passed through a deer and hit the ground be salvaged? I realize this seems a little petty but these 5 deer limits and the arrowheads add up.

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I have been shooting the same Muzzy broadheads for years. I know some have shot numerous deer. I use a wet stone and re sharpen and they still seem to pass through a deer just fine.

About the only time I will throw away a broadhead is if it hits a tree trunk and gets bent.

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I hone mine every year,A hard stone works fine unless there's dings then I start with a wet fine grade stone.If ya really want a edge do a final hone on steel,glass,or something HARD and flat.Kinda like a meat cutter using a steel.

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i still used those little "V" style hand held ones.( they are getting harder to find!) i buy a new one every year, as they can get a groove in the V and not do a good job. otherwise a wet stone. del

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Change them! Inserts are not that expensive and there is no way you can get them as sharp as new. NO WAY

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Mine might not be as sharp as new but they will still clear a deer without a problem. Yes, it takes a few moments, to sharpen to the best you can get them but they will do just fine.

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agreed !! you can get them scary sharp if you work at it!

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Field tips can "clear a deer" also. That doesn't mean they are doing enough damage to harvest that animal as cleanly as possible. True, some people may be able to put a pretty good edge on replaceable blades, if you are one of those, I appologize. Most people will not take the time to do a good enough job, and I still think it is a bad idea to let them think they can.

As hunters, our first responsibility to that animal is to take him as cleanly and humanely as possible. As a bowhunter, the best way to do that is to use a razor sharp broadhead and put it in the vitals.

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As I stated in one post above, one needs to take thier time to get a good edge on it.

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I also shoot the Thunderheads and my rule is that once they hit the ground after a shot, I replace the blades. But I see no problem with resharpening them, if you have the patience and know how to do it.

Its kind of like kitchen knives, some guys know how to use a stone and get them razor sharp but I used to have the dullest knives around - until I got my electric Chefs Choice sharpener. Now in five minutes I can do every kitchen knife. They may not be razor sharp but they'll cut a tomatoe - thats all I need.

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That is the key if you know how to sharpen them they will be fine. If you don't feel comfortable sharpening then replace them. Seems simple enough to me. They are metal and metal can be sharpened. That would be about like throwing away a fillet knife though because it dulled.

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When they come out with a electronic shapener that will do broadheads, I will get it and use it. Until then I will continue to just throw away and replace the one that hit the ground. They're CHEAP, enough for six broadheads cost less than $15. I don't shoot or miss that many deer a year, a pack of replacement blades will last me a couple of years.

I have better things to do with mine time than shapening my broadheads by hand. If you can do it, AND DO IT WELL, more power to you. Sharp broadheads are the key.

Comparing broadheads to fillet knives is like comparing apples to oranges. Again, I have better things to do with my time/ Replacement blades are cheap, yet they're so important to your success.

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Amen to new blades, they are not spring steel any more for inserts, but I did thy sharpening them once.... tongue.gif

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Sharp blades are key. Though I also believe it can be overdone. It is my belief that most blades come plenty sharp enough for the factory to kill a deer. I believe the editor of Peterson's Bowhunter said it best a year or two ago when talking about all of the hype that comes with bowhunting products when he said an arrow tipped with a tablespoon would be lethal given a well-placed shot. grin.gif

Now send one into the dirt or use it for target practice, then I believe it should remain a target broadhead. Regardless of sharpening it afterward.

In fact, unless you truly know what you're doing, I would be concerned about the sharpness factor afterward. New and out of the box, good to go in my books. Hit the dirt or target and its a nice practice tip.

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I believe thats right!Shot placement!I've often wondered when or if there are any serrated inserts out there?More HYPE smile.gif

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RIGHT <IN THE DIRT FOR THE DIRT>

Remember ,the shank on the broad will bend so remember to spin once on shaft. not always a bent arrow,try another broad head.

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I'm assuming you're talking about the tip of the broadhead? I shoot TH100s and unless the tip/ferrule is bent or deformed I just replace blades and hunt. The tips aren't necessarily 'sharp' to begin with - the very end point is but the sides aren't.

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I shoot TS125"s ,now the 100"s. I am talking about the threaded end shaft, not the tip.

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I'm confused now - we talking the insert itself or what?

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Yes, the insert or actual cutting blade was the original topic. The last few posts just changed to the threaded ends that screws into the arrow shaft.

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Sorry I changed the original topic. broads do have to fly true.

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