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ZapBranigan

First Oil Change New Vehicle

21 posts in this topic

So I am rapidly approaching my first oil change on my new vehicle. I would like to get 12 years (180,000 miles) on it.

I have heard put in normal oil for a few changes before going to Synthetic. One of you auto experts must have opinions on this issue. Go with synthetic or not? If so how soon?

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I change over to synthetic after 1000 miles. then every 3000 after that. That might be overkill to some but I'm comfortable with it.

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At 500, I'd change the filter and top off the oil and do a complete change at 1,000. A lot depends on your driving habits. I'm a big believer that frequent oil changes leads to longer motor life.

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I wouldnt put synthetic oil in until atleast 12k, let it break in!

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FWIW, I put synthetic in a company truck (better to experiment with) at the first oil change. I ran the crap out of that truck including pulling a 8x16 enclosed trailer up and down the Interstate at 80MPH.

Changed oil every 20-25 THOUSAND miles and filter about every 5-7K.

Well, the company changed polices and did away with company vehicles so I bought it for a song and a dance with about 170K miles on it. It now has 199K miles on it and still runs great (can't say the same about the body though) and doesn't use any oil to speak of. No puff of blue on startup, no rattles on startup, etc.; just runs good...

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I've been using Valvoline 5-30 for years without problems. I change every 3000 and my vehicles all have high mileage. 98 bonneville-235,000, 01 silverado-145,000, 03 buick 85,000. I think it's more important to change regularly than worry about synthetic.

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Its a TOYOTA! It will run for ever!!

By the way welcome to the Toyota family!

Keep it lubricated and keep it cool. Change the oil when it needs to be done and it will be fine. There are numerous times that we see the early V-6 and many 4 cyl. with well over 200k (Ken can verify that). My Tocoma will be approaching 175k pretty quick, heres what has been done to that. Headlights, brakes, tires, shocks, starter, plugs and two batteries. General maintanance when it needed/needs it. Otherwise everything is pretty much original and in good shape. Even the A/C still blows ice cold.

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There is no problem with changing to synthetic at the first oil change. (Many vehicles are now coming from the factory with synthetic oil.) Since the advent of micro-honing and low tension rings around 1990 (give or take a year or two depending on make) break in is almost immediate. I do prefer the first oil change being at considerably less than a "full oil change cycle by the owners manual."

This short time before synthetic does NOT apply to most rebuilt/remaned engines. Most rebuilders are still using the older standard honing and are not using the newer low tension rings. Reman/Rebuilt engines are usually going to need several oil changes or about 10,000 miles before using synthetic.

Why should anyone want to use synthetics (several posts are recommending not) -- Increase in fuel economy (most 3% to 5% over petroleum oils), reduction in wear (up to 50%) and with AMSOIL up to 15,000 mile oil changes (severe duty). Bottom line, you will save money!

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Another advantage of synthetic oil is when you change your oil at 15,000 miles you get alot less containers of drain oil sitting around. Not to mention less used oil filters also.

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I'll probably be opening a can of worms here but.

The vehicle manufacturer determines the intervals of the oil change not the oil manufacturer. If the vehicle is under any type of manufacturers warranty than following or bettering the manufacturers recommended service intervals is highly suggested.

I'm not doubting the abilities or benefits of synthetic fluids!

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Great point about the warranty Airjer! I got off of the topic a little bit, sorry!

[Note from airjer - No need to apologize your experiences and opinions are appreciated!]

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There are so many opinions on this subject, following the manufacturer is a great start. I'm personally not a believer in the 15k oil change, simply because crud enters the crankcase via the air intake (stuff gets past the filter). This is especially true if you drive on dirt roads a lot or in extreme weather conditions (aka, MN weather). I use Mobil 1 5w-30 Truck and SUV synthetic and change it every 5,000 miles. The manufacterer recommends using their oil every 5,000. I feel that changing it more than this is overkill (BTW, engine is Toyota 4.0L v6, 1GR-FE).

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We all have our opinions on stuff, and I will keep mine to myself. I have worked at a ford dealer for over 18 yrs. I have replace several engines because customers think I can go 15k-20k without changing my synthetic oil, so I will just forget about it until the oil change sticker says its due. Then about 12k miles into their oil change, their 4qt capacity engine is out of oil, and the engine locks up. Not the oil companies fault, but the customers, and then they want warrenty, sorry! They usually end up with 18k on a brand new car, engine locked up tight, and ford ends up repo-ing it because they dont want to fork out $3-5k for a new engine. Change it when the manufacturer says, or be willing to pay the consequences!

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Great point!

Many people don't realize that there engines consume oil. It maybe undetectable or it may be more significant. checking your oil every 2,500 to 3000 miles to make sure you can make it to that next oil change is definitely not a bad idea. I see many vehicles with less than a quart left in the pan with about 4k between oil changes.

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I run Amsoil in my truck and usually keep in in there for 9k. I do change the filter every 3k and top the oil off though. Just because the oil can last that long doesn't mean the filter will.

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That is a good point to consider, but the result is not the fault of extended drain intervals nor synthetic oil.

Warranty covers defects in material or workmanship, not ignorance or stupidity. wink.gif

Dunno what's taught in Driver's Ed these days, but I've always thought it should be mandatory to be able to demonstrate auto-related tasks to get a license.

Such as: Check/add oil, check/add coolant, check/add tire air pressure, change a tire, and jump-starting.

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Quote:

Warranty covers defects in material or workmanship, not ignorance or stupidity.


Oh so true, but everyone of the people I was refering to blamed ford, because they wouldnt fix it, and went out and told many others. Its called lack of maintenance, or stupidity!

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I hear ya. Same thing happens for the OEM I work for.

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Sounds like a bunch of options here. Sort of a personal preference choice. I'll do a bit more research then come up with my plan. Basically no matter what I choose I need to be aware of oil level with frequent checks and still change filters. Really nice to have that filter up on a plate on top of the motor instead of some really tough to get at spot underneath the vehicle. Anyway thanks for all your input. I think what I can take away from all this is monitor often make a plan and be dilligent. Be careful of my warrenty instructions but I could save some time and wear not to mention environmental impact by going to synthetic. 175K Airjer? You wouldn't know by looking. Hope to keep mine that good after 175K. Nice job so far. I don't think I will ever catch up to you. You are putting on more per year than me.

Thanks one and all. I hope this served to help others also.

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Quote:

175K Airjer? You wouldn't know by looking. Hope to keep mine that good after 175K. Nice job so far.


Thats on the Tacoma I used to have that I sold to mike. I'm pretty sure he's pushing 175k I sold it to him with around 125k. That thing shines like the sun and is still an excellent runner. I sure the Tundra Will look as good and last as long!

Buy the way the only thing I have seen on the tundras besides maintenance items and timing belts is the occasional O2 sensor at around 130k.

I just got mine back from Toyota yesterday. They had a recall on the lower ball joints and took care of a belt squeal that was solved with a TSB. I had an 07 Rav4 Limited for a loaner and all I can say is WOW, what a fun car to drive. The only complaints where the steering was really sensitive on the highway and there was no easing on the throttle (like anybody eases on the throttle when they have a loaner blush.gif ) . You barely touch the pedal and it felt like it went wide open.

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Another option that I don't see much discussed for automotive (more common on bigger trucks) is a bypass filter arrangement.

This is an additional bypass filter, of MUCH finer filtering capability, that is added to your lube system. Basically, it's tee'ed into your oil system so that a percentage, maybe like 20-25%, of the total oil circulation flow goes through this extra fine filter.

The theory is that this filter scrubs the oil much cleaner as you drive without seriously restricting oil flow that can happen with very fine filters (unless you use very large elements).

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