Guests - If You want access to member only forums on FM. You will gain access only when you Sign-in or Sign-Up on Fishing Minnesota.

It's easy - LOOK UPPER right menu.

Sign in to follow this  
Followers 0
Questor

Best bobber stops?

29 posts in this topic

I like to use slip bobbers and use the commercially tied bobber stops that are strings tied around a short length of plastic tube. Is there any way of preventing these from loosening after they're attached to the line? Or is there a better kind of bobber stop that doesn't have unwanted slip?

Thanks.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

It is risky, but after I cut my string down to size (after putting stop on line), I burn end of string with lighter. It forms little balls of melted string on end of stop, that I can get my finger nails on to tighten knot after it on my line.

Be careful, if you hit line with flam it will melt or even worse weaken line and you could loose your next fish. I have practiced over and over again during winter in fish house and have this down pretty good (with out burning line) and the little balls stay on knot all winter.

I have used this method with my braided line also. After uni-knott is tied on braid, I carefully burn left over chunk of line and it forms a ball. When line is pulled tight (snag or large fish) the burnt ball of braid stops the line from going threw knot and undoing knot.

Good luck!!!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I like the plastic "dog bone" type that have holes on each end and you loop the line around the middle. Then a bead goes between this and your bobber. They seem to work a lot better than the string for me. I really like the three hole ones but they are tough to find.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

For me, they seem loosen up fast. If the I/d of the plastic or rubber stops wears even a bit, it is junk.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Can you tell me more about the dog bone style? I've seen them and never tried the because I assumed they wouldn't go through the rod guides very well. I often make pretty long casts.

Thanks for the help!!!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

That is another big reason, they catch on eyelet of rod.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I like the dogbone ones. I have trouble moving them when I want to!!! And I've never had a problem with them cathing on the guide.

They're easy to use. Put the line through one of the holes, wrap it around the middle section 4 times or so, then out through the other hole.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Try putting clear nail polish on after you sinch it down.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Theres one better than the dogbone it looks the same but it has 4 holes and weaves on tight,glides through eyelets and is easily adjusted its for from 2-12 lb. line.there WT silp & set Bobber stops made by Rainbow Plastic Co.In fort Collins Colo.Mine are 31 yrs old and yet work there hard to wearout!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I could be thinking of a totaly differnt style.

The one I thought they were talking about are the rubber ball type with the wire loop going threw them. You run line threw loop and push rubber ball onto line and pull through.

I have given this style a shot once or twice and they catch while realing up and move. If you pull line through them 4 or 5 times, the inside of rubber wears and stop is shot. I allways end up tearing it off once and awhile or when it catches the line cuts threw the rubber half way and its junk.

I never have heard of them called "dog bones", I just called them rubber bobber stops.

Sorry for the mix up!!!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm going to the BWCA with some friends. I usually use the string type stops and an open-face reel. I know my friends will be using closed-face reels and as I recall the string type bobber stops get hung up in those.

Do the bone type stops work in a zebco type reel?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Quote:

I could be thinking of a totaly differnt style.

The one I thought they were talking about are the rubber ball type with the wire loop going threw them. You run line threw loop and push rubber ball onto line and pull through.

I have given this style a shot once or twice and they catch while realing up and move. If you pull line through them 4 or 5 times, the inside of rubber wears and stop is shot. I allways end up tearing it off once and awhile or when it catches the line cuts threw the rubber half way and its junk.

I never have heard of them called "dog bones", I just called them rubber bobber stops.

Sorry for the mix up!!!


Yeah, Shack, those are different than dogbones. I hate the soft rubber ones, too.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

These Are the "Dogbone" style.

i110825sq03.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have never tried the rubber ones with the wire, but have never heard good things about them. I have tried the dog bones ones and hated them, they were too hard for me to adjust and caught on my guides. just my opinion. I have not tried them since i have switched to superline. I use the string ones when i do use them, they slip almost too eaily on the super line, i just leave a little bit of string there so that i can clamp on to them with 2 pairs of forceps and tighten them up. just my opinion.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Quote:

Theres one better than the dogbone it looks the same but it has 4 holes and weaves on tight,glides through eyelets and is easily adjusted its for from 2-12 lb. line.there WT silp & set Bobber stops made by Rainbow Plastic Co.In fort Collins Colo.Mine are 31 yrs old and yet work there hard to wearout!


Might have to give these ones a shot. I get tired of trying to keep the string ones tight on braided line.

cat-bobber-stops.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I use different stops for different applications.

-String Stops - These are probably the most popular, and for good reason. They're cheap, easy to use, and do a fairly good job of staying put. I use these for most applications, but you really need to tighten them up before using. Tighten, then slide up the line a bit and re-tighten. Check to see if you're putting wear or a kink in your line. They should be difficult to move after you tighten. Careful about using pliers, you can easily damage your line.

Dog-bone - Thinner diameter mono is difficult with any bobber stop except the dog-bone style. These are more difficult to use, but hold better on the thinner stuff IMO.

Rubber stops - These are on a ring, secured to looped wire.....slip the line through the loop and pull a stop off of the wire and onto your line. I use these quite bit when lindy rigging with long snells. 10-12ft snells are the rage, but it's tough to net a fish with such long leaders. Using these as a "weight-stop" above the swivel, rather than traditional bobber stop works well, as you can reel the sinker up to the rod tip, then keep reeling to bring the fish closer to the net. Just slide the stop higher above the swivel to desired snell-length. Another bonus is you can quite easily change your snell length as conditions merit.

I'll also use the rubber stops as my main slip-bobbering stops when using some of the higher quality rods with smaller tips. St. Croix's, Shimano Crucials, Limit Creeks, and another custom rod I own have smaller tips, and when you put any load into the rod, the string-style stops have a tendency to slide down. The rubber ones slip through the guides better because of their egg-shape, and I have little problems with these.

Joel

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

THATS IT 311 !! I've tried em all and those ARE THE BEST!!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I use the string type but I don't cut off the ends, that way I can retighten. I don't have any trouble with it going through the guides.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ever try 2 of the string type back to back? I've been doing this the last couple of years and it seems to work ok. Like metioned before, leave enough string on the ends so that you can re-tighten if you need to.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Quote:

Ever try 2 of the string type back to back? I've been doing this the last couple of years and it seems to work ok. Like metioned before, leave enough string on the ends so that you can re-tighten if you need to.


Thats how I do it when using braided line.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have always used the gizmo bobber stops.Now i just purchased 3 bobbers with a brain and will try them out.No bobber stops needed with these.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

What are bobbers with a brain for someone without? grin.gif

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Heres an ebay auction number that shows them.Just type it in the ebay search. 140134187252

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I love to bobber fish so thanks for spreading the word. I just bought a ten pack, hopefully I can post again with rave reviews. Nice to see a company making lead free products seeing as every sinker bought represents a sinker on the bottom.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Here`s another auction on ebay that shows the bobber in action. 140133207993 I have not had a chance to try it out yet.If anyone has,give me your opinion on them.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.
Sign in to follow this  
Followers 0



  • Posts

    • DLD24
      I like drifting with them and snap jigging them with a controlled fall...Almost every time you'll feel that tick just as it's hitting bottom... Last time I was on mille lacs that's all I could get them to go on. As far as colors I'd just match the forage Tullies in the lake use blue,purples,silvers....Perch use perch colors.. I think the jiggin rap is my new favorite way to fish, but it gets scary with them little hooks when you got a big eye on lol.
    • DLD24
      Fished Big Sandy from 8-2 today and got 10 eyes (no keepers) keeper crappie and perch.... Marked tons of fish, but it was tough to get them to go, Lindy rig with a half crawler was the best by far. I tried leeches,jigging rap, jig n plastic. Points and reefs were the spots, later in the day a lot of fish were off the edges of the reefs... Just one day this year I'd like a happy medium weather wise, either I'm in 4ft rollers or 90 degrees with zero wind haha.
    • Garmandu
      According to Al Linder you can do it all with them...on his video that I watched a while back he was in deeper water throwing into 15 feet and working it back to the boat.  I have not tried it yet but will have to sometime this year.  Sand or gravel bottom would be the best.
    • ANYFISH2
      Just started playing with these this week as a friend has been have goos luck all summer with them on the Cass lake chain. I have not any success yet but not real sure on the best way to use them with my set this week.  My friend searches pods of fish out with electronics then spot locks and vertical jigs. I have no electronics or spot lock so I have been control drifting and jigging.   My questions...   Is there a depth they work better in, shallow vs. deeper?   Better vertically jigged vs trolled vs casted and jigged?   prime colors? of course my be lake dependent.   typically, aggressive jigging vs subtle jigging?   Thanks for tips
    • Perchy
      Yes, insured. I will ask the adjuster, thanks.
    • Captain Acorn
      Thanks cliff and lb I have actually had better luck with the puppet minnows from northland but I have mainly jigged them vertically definently is a fun way to fish 
    • LBerquist
      I've been trolling at about .5mph while using a jigging rap. This way one guy can still drag a lindy. I keep the front hook intact but my boat has contributed about half a dozen to the lake so far this summer. Im still working on getting the hang of it. If I know I'm in a rough area I will attempt to keep the jig from hitting bottom which still seems to be effective. I did pick up a couple off brands that don't have a front hook that I want to try. This is just what I have been toying around with, I'm definitely not an expert at it.
    • fisherjmb
      Hi Everyone, a couple of questions, I know there is free public boat ramp in Stillwater just above the lift bridge. Is there another public boat ramp further down river? I thought I read somewhere that Beanies is or was becoming a free public boat launch. Is that the case? Also, I am thinking of heading there on Monday to try my luck. Any tactics/depths/areas that have been producing for anyone?
    • proguide
      I would call the catfishing this week seasonal.  It is a pretty normal bite for a period of lower water and heat.  The catfish are in post spawn and spread out in their summer haunts.  The more aggressive fish are in the deeper water in the middle of the river.  As usual stay on the move and keep the bait fresh. Bait does not seem to matter still but people with frogs are saying they are getting their better hits with them. 
    • Rick
      Wildlife artists can submit entries for the 2018 Minnesota Trout and Salmon Stamp through 4 p.m. Friday, July 28, according to the Department of Natural Resources.  2017 Trout and Salmon Stamp Competition
      First Place: Timothy Turenne Anglers can purchase the trout and salmon stamp validation with their fishing license for an additional $10. For an extra 75 cents, purchasers can receive the pictorial stamp. It is also sold as a collectible for $10.75. Revenue from stamp sales is dedicated to trout and salmon management and habitat work. Trout or salmon must be the primary focus of the design, though other fish species may be included in the design if they are used to depict common interaction between species or are common inhabitants of Minnesota’s lakes and rivers. Brook trout designs are not eligible this year. Artists are prohibited from using any photographic product as part of their finished entries. Winning artists usually issue limited edition prints of the artwork and retain proceeds. Judging will take place Thursday, Aug. 3, at DNR headquarters, 500 Lafayette Road, St. Paul. For more information and contest guidelines, visit mndnr.gov/stamps, or call the DNR Information Center at 651-296-6157 or 888-646-6367. Discuss below - to view set the hook here.