Guests - If You want access to member only forums on FM. You will gain access only when you Sign-in or Sign-Up on Fishing Minnesota.

It's easy - LOOK UPPER right menu.

Sign in to follow this  
Followers 0
Farley

Trolling motor power supply for depthfinder

8 posts in this topic

Is there a way I can run the power for my depth finder off my bowmount minnkota Powerdrive trolling motor? The trolling motor was new last year, I run the transducer off the trolling motor, just curious if there is a way for me to get by with one less battery. Right now I just hook it up to a vexilar battery. I noticed there are two plugs comming out of the trolling motor, one is for a foot pedal, dont know what the other is for.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

It is possible. I have a MinnKota PD w/ universal sonar and it has that pigtail that you are talking about (it is small and circular).

I just cut the red and black plugs on my old Eagle Fish Easy 2, spliced in a fuse, and connected the wires to the plug that connects to that pigtail (the dealer threw in the connector when I bought the boat). It was quick and painless.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You MAY be subject to depth finder interference. This is not recommended.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have not experienced any sort of interference. It could be that since the transducer is built into the PD w/ US, it doesn't have that issue.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Why not run off the Battery itself?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Right now in our boat we have 2 batteries that are dedicated to the trolling motor, (24v) , a battery under the counsle that runs the depthfinder\GPS there and all the auxillary stuff on the dash plus the stereo and c.b. (and who knows what else), also we have a starting battery in the back that also runs the bilige. So all that stuff plus another battery just for the front depth finder. I know I can run the wires back to any other of these batteries, but was thinking Minnkota would have made it possible to not only hook up the transducer through the trolling motor but also the power, by a simple plug.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I looked a little closer at this when I got home from work and I want to clear up a mistake in my intial post.

The pigtail on the trolling motor actually plugs into the transducer wire connection of your depth finder.

The wires coming up from your trolling motor batteries will need to be spliced into and a fuse added to the positive wire. Then you can add connectors to the end of the red/black splices.

Put the opposite connectors on your depth finder power wires (I had to cut the old connectors off) and you are set to go.

If that is still confusing, let me know and I can post some pictures.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Like Katoguy posted - typically connecting the depthfinder to the trolling motor power wires will cause interference on the depth finder. I belive only Motor Guide claims to have no interference from the trolling motor with their digital drive system as compared to what I believe is Minnkota's Pulse Width Modulation Drive(turning the motor on and off extremely fast multiple times per second).

So, if you don't have interference in your setup, great.. but that's typically not the case when the trolling motor is running and your locator is running.

marine_man

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.
Sign in to follow this  
Followers 0



  • Posts

    • HunterFisher11
      Well thinking that I will give it a try thaks for all the input. Will post again if I get out.
    • CigarGuy
      Cook, MN facebook page has a picture and info on it.  I don't know how to post a link, but here's the post-minus the photo.   The combination of record mild temperatures in late February and more seasonable temperatures in early March, has prompted dramatic ice movement on Lake Vermilion.... The south shore of Birch Point, which faces Big Bay, has seen some of the most extensive damage, as the ice has twisted lift docks, damaged boat houses, downed trees, and rearranged sizeable chunks of shoreline. Only a handful of docks along the heavily-developed lakeshore have so far escaped damage from the ice. Many docks have been damaged beyond repair. The pressure of expanding ice is typically relieved out in the lake, where large pressure ridges often form. But those ridges didn’t form as usual this year, and that left the shorelines vulnerable to the immense power of expanding ice. Lake property owners are likely to be shocked when they arrive back at their cabins and lake homes later this year. And the cost of repairs could be especially painful since, in many cases, the damage is likely not covered by insurance. “It will depend on their individual policies,” said Donna Mosher, with the Tower-Soudan Agency, which serves many Lake Vermilion property owners. She said standard insurance policies typically don’t cover ice movement, which can be a frequent source of property damage in areas where thick ice builds up in winter. Many property owners on Vermilion and other larger area lakes have turned to lift-out docks to minimize their risk of damage, but this year’s unusual conditions are leaving many of those docks damaged or destroyed as well. Some property owners do obtain insurance that includes a specific schedule or rider to cover more expensive docks, according to Mosher, but that’s usually the exception rather than the rule. “I’ve had to tell people ‘no’ already,” said Mosher. “It’s unfortunate.”
    • T-water
      The good news is you can't lose!  Let us know what you decide.
    • tacklejunkie
          Downriggers are not necessary but if you use them this time of year, don't go down  deep. I used to use boards but they were more complicated for others on my boat to use so it's small dipseys off the side or a clean line straight back. Spoons and sticks work well this time of year   Shallow and high. One year, I ran DR in the spring with the counter reading 6 feet.  
    • Musky hunter 82
      No problem, I always try to help out another fisherman whenever I can.  Squarebill crankbaits 12# fluoro would be good, but if you're talking lipless crankbaits I'd run that on 17# as well.  Here's how I have my baitcasters setup:   6'6" MH - 50# braid (Swim jigs, and topwater frogs) 7' MH - 15# mono with a  18" - 17# fluoro leader (Spinnerbaits/Chatterbaits) 7' MH - 17# fluoro (Jigs, Lipless Crankbaits) 7' M - 12# fluoro (Squarebill crankbaits)   Worms, tubes, jerkbaits and topwater poppers I use a spinning rod